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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, April 11, 2003

Buona Sera offers delicious Italian specialties

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

Buona Sera waiter Taylor Roberts shows off a plate of the restaurant's Chicken Buona Sera, which includes sautéed fresh spinach, roasted peppers, garlic, capers and Romano cheese served over linguine. Buona Sera specializes in family-style Italian food. Come hungry, because the portions are substantial.

Eugene Tanner • The Honolulu Advertiser

Buona Sera

131 Hekili St., Kailua

5:30-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays

5:30-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays

263-7696

Good

In Italian, buona sera means good evening. In Kailua, Buona Sera translates as a pleasant family-style Italian restaurant that's been in this spot for seven years.

With intimate lighting throughout, and a smallish dining room (about a dozen tables), this restaurant has a cozy feel. Empty chianti bottles line the walls, many of them signed by patrons. An affordable choice, chianti seems to go well with so many dishes. And anyone familiar with it will recall the characteristic bulbous bottle wrapped in straw.

Unfortunately, the odd-shaped bottle made it a nightmare to store in cellars, and most Chianti shippers now use standard wine bottles. Another icon is fading away.

Still, at Buona Sera, there's a 2001 Banfi Bell'agio chianti, straw-wrapped and ready to enjoy, for just $21.50.

The Escargots Stagionale ($6.80) are cooked with fresh spinach and basil, garlic, butter and dry white wine, along with Romano and mozzarella cheeses.

The Calamari Fritti ($7.80) were the most tender I have had. All too often, eating fried squid can be like chewing on a rubber band; here they were lightly breaded and fried, and served with an herby and well-balanced marinara sauce for dipping. Mozzarella Fritti ($5.80) are like hot lava encased in breading; a cheesy-stretchy treat also served with marinara. Roasted peppers ($5.80) are simply delicious. Sweet and smoky at the same time, they are a lighter choice for an appetizer.

The antipasto platter for two ($7.80) was enjoyable, including salami slices, garbanzos, pepperoncini, olives, romaine lettuce and tomato slices. It was a scaled-down version compared to some other places, but still quite tasty with a creamy dressing.

Soups are a steal here, only $2.80 per bowl. The Minestrone was filled with vegetables in a tomato broth, enhanced by basil and oregano. The Stracciatella was subtle, with fresh chopped spinach and a freshly beaten egg added to a light chicken broth.

The pasta courses (all $8.80) were quite generous portions, especially the Fettuccine Carbonara, tossed with onion bits, bacon, egg, butter and a splash of white wine. This is a rich dish, but not overly so, the sauce hugging but not overwhelming the noodles. The Linguine Anchovy Olio served as a reminder of just how good anchovies, garlic and olive oil can be.

The entrées are hearty fare with familiar flavors. Chicken Buona Sera ($9.80) combines sautéed chicken with spinach, roasted pepper, garlic, capers, and Romano cheese. Chicken Marsala ($9.80) arrived as two large breasts, breaded and topped with mushrooms and marsala wine. Both are served over linguine.

The chicken, sausage, and shrimp dish ($12.80) is an all-out affair, flavors bursting as these ingredients are sautéed with anchovy, garlic and olive oil. Shrimp Veneziana ($11.80) is flavored with bacon, fresh basil, and garlic, served with marinara sauce. Veal Saltimbocca ($12.80) is a Buona Sera specialty; breaded veal topped with breaded eggplant, mozzarella cheese and prosciutto, surrounded by sautéed mushrooms, and topped with a white-wine butter sauce.

A large selection of meat-free entrées is available. Linguine Diavolo ($8.80) is topped with garlic, fresh basil, pepperoncini, black olives and sun-dried tomatoes. There also is a Linguine Primavera ($8.80) that includes fresh veggies sautéed with garlic, butter and wine; an Eggplant Parmigiana ($8.80); and a Lasagna Verdura ($8.80) with fresh veggies, ricotta and mozzarella.

Buona Sera is affordable and off the beaten path in Kailua. The service is friendly and always comes with a smile. So if you're looking for a new place to enjoy Italian-style food — the kind that's familiar and filling — give it a try.

Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.