FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Graze on these choice cookbooks

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

The International Association of Cooking Professionals each year recognizes the best new cookbooks, and I'm devoting my column to the winners this week because I've always found their judgments to be reliable. These are the choices announced earlier this month at the association's national conference.

In cases where I previously reviewed the books, I've added my comments.

AMERICAN CATEGORY. "American Classics" by the editors of Cook's Illustrated. Boston Common Press, $29.95. I'm a huge fan of Cook's Illustrated; they're the people who are perfectly willing to prepare a recipe two dozen times to determine the best technique.

BREAD, OTHER BAKING AND SWEETS CATEGORY. "Baking by Flavor" by Lisa Yockelson. Wiley, $45.

CHEF & RESTAURANTS CATEGORY. "Zuni Café Cookbook" by Judy Rodgers. W.W. Norton & Co., $35. In an earlier review, I noted that this book, from the chef of the San Francisco culinary mecca, embodies her philosophy as well as her recipes. This beautiful book is aimed at the serious student or food literature afficionados.

FOOD REFERENCE / TECHNICAL CATEGORY. "Vegetables From Amaranth to Zucchini: The Essential Reference" by Elizabeth Colchie Schneider. William Morrow, $60. I have been Elizabeth Schneider's slave since she published "Uncommon Fruits and Vegetables" a couple of decades ago. This new book is much broader in scope, presented in dictionary format, with color photographs of the produce, an informative essay, instructions on its basic use and recipes. A great read for those who just have to know it all.

GENERAL CATEGORY. "Michael Chiarello's Casual Cooking" by Michael Chiarello with Janet Fletcher. Chronicle Books, $35.

HEALTH AND SPECIAL-DIET CATEGORY. "Betty Crocker's Living with Cancer" by Betty Crocker editors. Wiley, $24.95

INTERNATIONAL CATEGORY. "1,000 Indian Recipes" by Neelam Batra. Wiley, $35.

LITERARY FOOD CATEGORY. "Near a Thousand Tables: The History of Food" by Felipe Fern‡ndez-Arm-esto. The Free Press, $25.

SINGLE SUBJECT CATEGORY: "Italian Classics" by the editors of Cook's Illustrated. Boston Common Press, $29.95. Another excellent work from Cook's Illustrated.

WINE, BEER OR SPIRITS CATEGORY: "Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines of Italy" by Joseph Bastianich with David Lynch. Clarkson Potter, $35.

FIRST BOOK CATEGORY: THE JULIA CHILD AWARD. "The Craft of the Cocktail" by Dale DeGroff. Clarkson Potter, $35.