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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Friday, April 25, 2003

MAY DAY SCENE
City's lei contest welcomes first-timers' art

By Wayne Harada
Advertiser Entertainment Writer

Lei in the competition must use natural materials — flowers, ferns and/or leaves — and are judged on their creativity, wearability and texture by a panel that often includes professional lei-makers.

Advertiser library photo

The hardest part of lei-making is the gathering of blossoms and greenery, say veteran lei enthusiasts who often judge the city's annual Lei Day contest on May Day. The other difficulty is overcoming the misbelief that you've got to be a pro to enter a lei; it's not so.

Since May Day is Thursday, there's still time to build up your confidence and get your creative juices going.

"Amateur lei-makers are often intimidated, figuring it's tough to beat the professionals," said Naomi Carter, who has been chairing the city contest for the past five years. "We tried separate novice and professional categories for about five years, and the last time was five years ago. It just didn't work, because once you win as an amateur, you had to enter as a professional. And many pros keep entering."

Lei Day

10 a.m.-6 p.m. Thursday

Kapi'olani Park Bandstand

Free

Highlights:
• 7:30-9:30 a.m.: Lei entries
• 10 a.m.-3 p.m.: Ho'olaulea (crafts and demos)
• 10 a.m.-10:45 a.m.: Royal Hawaiian Band concert
• 10 a.m.-2 p.m.: Hawaiian Steel Guitar Association
• 11 a.m.-noon: Lei queen investiture program
• Noon-5 p.m.: Hula halau performances (noon, Na Kama 'O La'akona; 1 p.m., Hawai'i Loa; 2 p.m., Na Mele Manu Aloha; 3 p.m., Na Opio 'O Ko'olau; 4 p.m., Halau Hula 'O Hokulani)
• 12:30-5:30 p.m.: Lei viewing for the public
• 3:30-4 p.m.: Youth lei contest registration
• 4-6 p.m.: Youth lei contest (five age groups)

692-5118, 692-5751

The point is this: Yes, seasoned lei-makers have experience on their side, and it can be daunting for a homespun beginner to compete. But everyone initially enters as a novice — with the idea that practice is part of the overall ritual of earning that blue ribbon.

"We have about 13 judges, with one assigned to each of our categories, and three deciding the mayor's grand prize winner," said Carter. "It's all fair; if you're a former winner and you're judging, you can't enter. But it's understandable to be intimidated at the beginning."

Her chief concern is that the idea that you have to be super-great to enter the competition has led to a decline of entries over the past few years. Because sign-ups don't happen till Lei Day, there's no indication on how many will be vying this year at Kapi'olani Park Bandstand. And the judges won't know who created what.

"We're expecting between 50 and 80 lei," said Carter. "We're probably getting 25 entrants, because some make as many as eight lei, though most make only one."

Lei-making is a true art, with men and women creating eye-filling wonders. The contest requires specific material and lei-making styles, using only natural flora (no artificials) with precise Hawaiian lei styles — haku, wili, kui, etc. (see below).

"Gathering your materials is what takes time," said Euphemia Nagashima, a retired city worker and veteran lei-maker. "If you want certain things, you have to have it handy or know where to get it. Generally, you grow your own; you never buy from the store. Gathering and prepping take the most time; when you have your flowers and fern, you can make a lei within the hour."

Manu Boyd, a kumu hula, Office of Hawaiian Affairs official, and hula and lei enthusiast, said the city's contest "has elevated the process of lei-making. Over the years, I would never have imagined certain plant material to be incorporated into lei. The contest has pushed the envelope with the level of creativity."

Wearability, he said, is the most important factor in making a lei. "If it doesn't wear well, it doesn't work, no matter how pretty the lei is," he said. "A lei should not be too heavy, to be a burden; and some are often bound so tightly, like a board, they get heavy and stiff and they aren't the adornment they should be."

"I look for workmanship," said Nagashima, who still regularly crafts lei. "One thing, as a judge — we can touch the lei, to see how it feels, to see how it's put together. The general public can look but not touch."

"Everyone started the same way — a beginner," said Brian Choy, who enters several lei each year and earns a ribbon or two. "Old-timers like myself and Bill Char keep entering, because if we don't, there's no contest (meaning low entry numbers). So amateurs should not feel afraid."

Choy this year is submitting a theme lei, reflecting "May Day Is Lei Day in Hawai'i," and the island-by-island rainbow of colors.

"I tend to be monochromatic — using two colors," but his theme entry requires a rainbow of hues. "The trick is to reflect the theme without making it chop suey."

While there are other lei contests around town, this one is the biggest — and most prestigious.

"Every year, you see something different that you never thought was possible. Every year, you see a flower used a different way," said Carter.

"It's like Merrie Monarch," said Boyd, who is kumu of Halau o ke 'A'ali'i Ku Makani, and a commentator for KITV's annual TV coverage of the hula event originating in Hilo and televised statewide. "There are people who will win who've won before; and there are people who will win who have never won before. The issue is, you've got to enter."

Still linking lei with dance, Boyd said:

"The term haku lei means lei-maker; and haku mele is the weaver of words in poetry. You have to carefully select words that become the mele; and in haku lei, the weaver needs to gather appropriate flowers to create a cultural endeavor."

So what happens to the winning lei entries after Lei Day? They are taken to Mauna'ala, the royal mausoleum at 2261 Nu'uanu Ave. on May 2, where they will be presented to the ali'i of Hawai'i in ceremonies beginning at 9 a.m.

"This is a time when the public can touch, examine, and even wear the lei for a photo-taking," said Carter.

Lei contest rules

Open to: Individuals or groups; no limit of entries.
Entry forms: Must accompany each lei. Lei must be submitted between 7:30-9 a.m. on Lei Day at the receiving booth at Kapi'olani Park; submissions after 9 a.m. may be displayed but will be ineligible for prizes.
Methodology: All lei must be made in one or a combination of these Hawaiian methods:
Haku: Braided flowers, leaves or fruit, to a three-strand plait of fern, ti leaves, hau fiber, etc.
Hili: A single plant material, braided together; such as pala'a.
Humupapa: Floral material sewn to a foundation of dried banana, lauhala or other suitable materials.
Kui: Material strung together through the center or side, with needle and thread.
Kipu'u: Stems of leaves knotted together to make a chain; without the use of cordage or needles.
Wili: Plant materials placed on a backing of ti leaf, lauhala or other suitable materials, and wound with fibre or thread around the plant material and backing.
Color categories: Eight color categories (one for each island) are open for neck lei entries:
Blue/violet: Kaua'i.
Green: Moloka'i.
Red: Big Island.
Pink: Maui.
White: Ni'ihau.
Yellow: O'ahu.
Orange: Lana'i.
Gray: Kaho'olawe.
Materials: Lei must be made with natural plant materials, limited to flowers, leaves, stems, roots, fruits and seeds
Measurements and form: Neck lei, minimum 36 inches, maximum 42 inches; hat lei, 22-24 inches; theme lei, 36-42 inches; all lei must have two-inch loop for hanging at the top, with a two-inch tail at the bottom (to identify top and bottom of the lei).
Wearability: All lei must be wearable.
No-nos: Endangered plants cannot be used; lei made with artificial materials, artificially treated or dyed will be disqualified; each lei may be entered in only one category or division; employees of Honolulu Department of Parks and Recreation are ineligible.
Prizes: Cash and ribbons will be awarded (and distributed by mail) as follows:
Neck lei: first, $100, blue ribbon; second, $80, red ribbon; third, $60, white ribbon.
Hat lei: first, $100, blue ribbon; second, $80, red ribbon; third, $60, white ribbon; fourth, $40, green ribbon; fifth, $25, yellow ribbon.
Theme lei ("E Ho'i I Ka Paemoku — Return to the Islands):" first, $150, blue ribbon; second, $100, red ribbon; third, $75, white ribbon.
Mayor's grand prize: best-in-show award, $200, purple ribbon, selected from all entries.
Public viewing: 1-5:30 p.m. Lei Day; lei will be taken to Mauna'ala, the Royal Mausoleum, and presented to Na Ali'i O Hawai'i (the royalty of Hawai'i), at 9 a.m. May 2; public invited.
• Information: Department of Parks and Recreation, 692-5516.