Region's tastes meld at Marbella

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

Customers dig into their dinners at Marbella restaurant on Kapi'olani Boulevard. Dishes include moussaka, with layers of ground lamb and eggplant, flavored with cinnamon and other spices, and baked; and lamb shank braised in red wine and served with a white-bean ragout. Eugene Tanner • The Honolulu Advertiser Marbella 1680 Kapi'olani Blvd. 943-4353 Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Wednesdays Dinner: 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. nightly Very good

Marbella, the restaurant, is in what was once the home of one of my favorite restaurants, the now-defunct Tai Pan on the Boulevard, on Kapi'olani. It's the creation of two brothers, Ash and Magdy Matar. Ash, who has been in Honolulu for 22 years, is an entrepreneur who runs a transportation company. Magdy moved to Hawaii two years ago with a background in hotel and restaurant management.

Smartly, they brought in Nicole Pinot as general manager, recognized by many because she's been in and around the Hawai'i dining scene for several years. She is the ultimate meeter and greeter, with a French accent; no one makes patrons feel more welcome.

Appetizers to try from the dinner menu are the goat cheese, Nicoise olive and caramelized onion tart ($8) with arugula salad and tapenade (a paste of capers, anchovies, ripe olives, olive oil, lemon juice, seasonings and — sometimes — small pieces of tuna). The tart is dense, flavorful and on the sweet side of savory.

Grilled salmon fingers wrapped in grape leaves ($7.50) are quite good, too. Fresh mint and a cool cucumber salad accompany this smoky, tender treat. These, along with the grilled eggplant ($7) are my favorite starters here. Along with the eggplant, sweet red and yellow bell peppers are crisscrossed on the plate with a scoop of creamy chili-pepper goat cheese in the center, topped with shreds of basil and surrounded by garlic chips. Yum!

Sauteed spicy shrimp pil pil ($8) is a version of a well-known Chilean/Basque appetizer, using lots of olive oil and garlic, with the heat attained via a piquant red chili pepper.

Entrees such as moussaka ($16), originally a Greek creation, is made with layers of ground lamb and eggplant, flavored with cinnamon and other spices, and baked. It's topped with a creamy béchamel sauce, and lightly browned.

The lamb shank ($17) is braised in red wine, served with a white-bean ragout. The grilled, marinated filet of beef ($19.50) is served with an excellent version of potatoes dauphinois, one of the most heavenly potato dishes on the planet. If your entrée doesn't include these potatoes, layered in a rich, creamy garlic sauce, order a side dish.

Among other entree choices: salmon Wellington ($19) and rack of lamb ($19.50), along with a seafood salmon risotto ($16.50) and braised balsamic chicken ($16). I was told that new additions to the menu would be coming soon. There may even be a version of the addictive Moroccan bastila (bas-TEE-ya) — shredded chicken, ground almonds and spices, wrapped in filo dough. It's baked until a crisp golden brown, and then sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon.

Lunch offerings include good sandwiches on ciabatta bread, with a side of mixed greens. Grilled veggies ($7.95), grilled breast of chicken ($7.50) marinated in extra-virgin olive oil and mixed herbs, and grilled fish of the day ($7.50) are your choices. There's a Mediterranean plate of hummus, baba ghanoush (puree of eggplant, sesame paste, olive oil, lemon juice and garlic) and falafel ($8.50), served with pita bread.

Despite its name, Marbella's style takes on a decidedly more pan-Mediterranean feel than a strictly Spanish one; however, the tastes are fresh and honest. The interior is cool and comfortable, with muted bright splashes of color on the walls, and honey-colored wood tables in the dining room. Spirited music fills the air.

It looks like Marbella is becoming a hangout for folks in the restaurant business. The first time I visited, I saw caterer Moumen El Hajji (who owned Beau Soleil); on another visit I ran into George Mavrothalassitis ("Chef Mavro"), his son, and publicist-wife Donna Jung. Marbella is a rising star, and I predict it will continue to improve.

Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.