Gems and jewelers share the spotlight in this extensive collection of 110 pieces selected from the complete collection of 399 by the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation and the Newport Restoration Foundation, with curators from the Newark Museum. It is a gift to Hawai'i, the first and only time this collection will be seen. Many of the pieces will be sent to auction when the exhibit closes.

The facets of light that glare from the diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, opals and other precious gems in this exhibit are impressive and mesmerizing. It's a razzle-dazzle display of the heiress's inherited and collected jewels — much like getting a peek at a treasure chest that belonged to a queen.

Born into privilege in 1912, Duke spent much of her lifetime in pursuit of beauty. Her collection tells many stories — of changing tastes in America from the 1850s to the end of the 20th century, social and cultural aspects of 18th- and 19th-century India, and (evidenced by empty settings) Duke's fearless eye for reconstructing her gems into completely new creations.

The exhibit is separated into five sections. The first displays Duke's heirloom jewelry, which ranges from coral and gold bracelets from the 1860s to a seed pearl locket from 1923. The locket probably was given to Duke by her father, James Buchanan Duke, founder of the American Tobacco Co. and Duke Energy Co.

•	Gems from the East and West: The Doris Duke Jewelry Collection 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays 1 to 5 p.m. Sundays Closed Christmas and New Year's days Through Jan. 4 Textile Gallery Honolulu Academy of Arts

The third section begins in the 1930s. Duke turned 21 in 1933 and took a controlling interest in her affairs. She married James Cromwell and traveled to India in 1935, where she began her collection of Indian jewelry. This section includes the remarkable 280-carat double-strand emerald bead necklace. The quantity and high quality of the emeralds make this a rare treasure.

The fourth section shows pieces from the 1940s and later. Duke divorced Cromwell in 1943 and began an independent life with a fortune estimated at more than $300 million. In this section and the next, the more artistic, exotic facets of Duke's taste emerge. Many pieces are by cutting-edge designers of the period — David Webb, Fulco di Verdura and

Seaman Schepps — who often designed one-of-a-kind pieces from the jewels she brought back from her extensive travels. The diamond and platinum necklace mount displayed in this section is a reminder of Duke's creative eye for recycling stones.

In the last and largest section, we are treated to a feast of Duke's Indian and Southeast Asian jewelry. Included here are the Maharaja necklace and Mogul pieces such as the 18th-century carved emerald pendant with diamonds, pearls and polychrome enameling. This collection coincides with Duke's fascination for Islamic arts and objects exhibited in her Honolulu home, Shangri La.

Tours of Shangri La are offered Wednesdays through Saturdays, by advance reservation, and can be scheduled by calling (866) 385-3849 or online at www.honoluluacademy.org. The art museum also has a new gallery, Arts of the Islamic World, that features treasures from Duke's collection.

After visiting the "Gems from the East and West" exhibit three times, I and my friends have selected favorite pieces. The diamond, platinum and oriental pearl tiara made by Cartier in 1924 is my top choice. It was included in the special 2000 exhibit "Tiara" at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. It's a crown of faceted diamonds that flicker prisms of color.

One can imagine wearing it and receiving bows and being extended courtesies, not having to drive in holiday traffic or wait on line to check out. It's good to pretend, especially at Christmas.