Padovani's sports a relaxed, minimalist approach

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

Padovani's Restaurant & Wine Bar

Doubletree Alana Waikiki Hotel, 1956 Ala Moana, 946-3456

Breakfast, 6:30-10 a.m. daily
Lunch, 11:30 a.m.i2 p.m. daily
Dinner, 6-9:30 p.m. (final seating) MondaysiSaturdays

Wine Bar

Opens 4:30 p.m. daily

until 11:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays
until 12:30 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays

Dinner service 5:30-10 p.m.

For some time, there has been something of a disconnect between Padovani's and the dining public.

Pierre Padovani offers an assortment of desserts at the restaurant, where Provence meets Hawai'i over a cellar full of fine wines. Rebecca Breyer • The Honolulu Advertiser

Bolstered by positive word of mouth, a smattering of dining awards and a cadre of regulars who have followed Philippe Padovani's work since his days at the Ritz-Carlton Mauna Lani and Manele Bay hotels, things looked good.

But some considered Padovani's too haute French. Perhaps too stuffy? The wine bar, which had been a rather lively spot under the previous management, became a more staid — and much more expensive — retreat.

In summer 2001, Damon and the Padovanis dissolved their partnership, and some wondered if Padovani's would survive. Rumors swirled. People noted that two previous tenants, one a Roy's, had come and gone in that space. Philippe Padovani dabbled in other projects — a line of chocolates, ready-made meals sold at the now-defunct Strawberry Connection. Then, last year, he announced he was opening a second Padovani's in San Francisco; brother Pierre would manage the kitchen in Honolulu.

Now Padovani's is getting its footing back. New partner Keith Kiuchi says the restaurant is here to stay. He's made some sweeping changes: Gone are the tuxedo-wearing staffers and the formal captains — a younger and what Kiuchi calls "hip, more dynamic and more energetic" staff is on the floor now.

Pierre Padovani, trained as a pastry chef and candymaker, supervises. Philippe designed the dishes and trained the kitchen staff for both restaurants. He hops back and forth on flying visits.

The room remains an inviting place, with interesting and attractive lighting, delicate touches of art throughout, and tables well-spaced for intimate dining.

An amuse bouche is offered before the meal to get your juices flowing. One night it was mixed mushrooms atop crostini, another night it was whipped goat cheese atop a crepe with a touch of salmon. Both were delicately flavored.

The menu is split into two distinct areas, one side showcasing foods from the sea; the other, foods from the earth's bounty. Appetizers are similarly displayed. My favorites were the pan-fried scallops and foie gras ($18), roasted vine-ripened tomato soup ($12), and a polenta cake topped with sauteed mushrooms, flavored with truffle oil. That one was on the quartet appetizer plate ($22).

Grilled John Dory ($32) with asparagus, tomato and capers is listed as the lead seafood entree; however, both times I visited, it was unavailable. The poached moi ($32) is very lightly flavored with a lemongrass broth, served with seasonal mushrooms, pear tomatoes and asparagus. Better is the pan-seared moana weke and foie gras ($35). It is a layered affair, arranged over a foundation of a soft polenta cake with onion marmalade and truffle-oil vinaigrette. The flavor and textures on this creation are noteworthy.

From left, Duncan Mann, of Curry Rivel, England, with his mother, Janice, and father, James, anticipate their dinners on a recent evening at Padovani's Restaurant and Wine Bar. Rebecca Breyer • The Honolulu Advertiser

Desserts were a miss on our first visit. The tarte tatin ($12), usually one of my favorite things in the whole world, fell flat. Instead of chewy and caramelized apple slices, it was mushy, like a baked apple in consistency. The puff-pastry base was also extremely overdone, almost burnt. The Saint Remon ($14) is described on the menu as a dark chocolate cake, but in reality is more akin to a mousse. Brioche pudding ($10) is a decent but not thrilling version of bread pudding.

Instead of the sweet stuff, order the excellent cheese plate ($15 with your choice of four cheeses) with homemade walnut-raisin bread, dried apricots, raisins and red grapes. Get a glass of port or other dessert wine to make this course complete.

Padovani's is striving to create food that is "southern French, very Provence-style, infused with the flavors of Hawai'i," but Kiuchi says the primary focus of this restaurant lies in wine pairing and in the wine list: 580 wines, and according to him, the largest selection in the Islands.

I was surprised that the finished appetizer and entree plates were not as visually pleasing as one might expect from a restaurant such as this one. Garnishes and colors both were too minimalist. This initial opportunity to make a great impression was missing on both visits. Altogether, while the food wasn't bad, at these prices you expect to be transported by every dish, and that wasn't my experience.

Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.