Ample supply means 2004 will have good start for 'ahi lovers

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Masako Matsushima, 78, leaned heavily on her cane and peered closely at the hunk of premium 'ahi being trimmed to her specifications.

Robert Fram, president of Garden and Valley Isle Seafood Inc. arranges cuts of 'ahi for display. Richard Ambo • The Honolulu Advertiser

As with so many family parties in Hawai'i today and tomorrow, the Matsushima clan's gathering wouldn't be complete without the best 'ahi sashimi (raw, sliced tuna), poke (raw seafood salad) and sushi they can afford.

The two were delighted to hear that the supply of tuna is good this year, causing prices to remain stable rather than spiking up sharply, as happens in years when fish is scarce.

United Fishing Agency's Kewalo Basin auction has been dealing close to 100,000 pounds of fish a day since Sunday. They were still operating in the wee hours this morning as the last of the pre-New Year's catch was sold off.

"It's a consumer market again," said Brooks Takenaka, United Fishing Agency's assistant general manager.

Range of prices

In retail stores, shoppers will encounter a wide range of prices.

At Tamashiro Market in Kalihi, they'll pay as little as $5.50 a pound for coarse-textured tombo 'ahi (albacore), suitable for poke, all the way up to $29.95 a pound for rare premium bluefin, the sashimi gourmet's choice.

Guy Tamashiro of Tamashiro Market said the bluefin, which didn't come from the auction but was purchased elsewhere at a premium, will vanish quickly.

"It's the same as last year," he said, "There's a lot in the mid- to affordable range, but the really good ones are rare. You just hope you'll have enough to last the day."

At Garden and Valley Isle Seafood on Nimitz, a primarily wholesale operation that operates a retail store for a couple of weeks around the holidays, company president Bob Fram said "light-colored, Sunday brunch 'ahi" is selling for $8.50, with brighter color 'ahi around $12.95.

In Chinatown, the range for sashimi-grade 'ahi was from $15.50 to $26.50 a pound in O'ahu Market stalls.

Costco is selling sliced 'ahi trays with shoyu, wasabi and garnish for $9.95 a pound.

Fram also noted a consumer-friendly factor that often plays out at this time of year: So many longline boats go out hoping for a lucrative 'ahi catch, and the fish-house buyers are so focused on 'ahi, that a plentiful "bi-catch" — other species that get snagged along with the tuna — is undervalued.

High-quality, bright-colored nairagi (striped marlin), suitable for sashimi and poke, is half the price of 'ahi, Fram said.

Offer a mixed plate

Benji Agyapas, senior fish-cutter at Garden and Valley Isle Seafood Inc. filets 'ahi, which results in a large part of the fish being discarded. Richard Ambo • The Honolulu Advertiser

All lend themselves to broiling or grilling for the party table.

Normally, the Matsushimas leave the fish-buying until New Year's Eve and feast on New Year's Day.

"Gotta be fresh, buy 'em last minute," Masako Matsushima said.

But they're celebrating tonight because for the first time in years all of Matsushima's children and grandchildren will be home. But some who live on the Mainland have to fly back tomorrow. Also, Matsushima recalled, many stores used to close on New Year's Eve — but that's not the case anymore, so last-minute buyers are expected to queue up today.

Matsushima admitted that paying in excess of $20 a pound for yellowfin tuna made her old heart thump.

"But my son, you know, he cannot get this in the Midwest where he lives, so go fo' broke," she said, laughing behind her hand.

"Uncle can't wait," added Nishi.

So what's the difference between $12.95 'ahi and $25.95 'ahi?

At the auction, Takenaka said, wholesale buyers base their bids on flesh color, fat content, freshness and size. The retail price factors in the cost of caring for the fish and the considerable loss involved — about 60 percent of the weight of the valuable flesh is discarded in filleting it out, then more is lost to trimming the fish to the proper sashimi size, Fram said.

It's all about fat

For connoisseurs, it's all in the fat content. The auction takes a plug out of each fish near the tail, allowing buyers to rub the flesh between their latex-gloved fingers, testing for a tell-tale intersection of oiliness and stickiness.

Tamashiro compares it to marbling in beef. Bright-red beef looks nice, but you cook it, it's likely to be less flavorful and tougher. The pale color that indicates high fat content brings with it buttery texture and rich flavor.

Toro, the belly cut, is most prized. Shoppers will also see the word abura (fat) used to describe higher-priced oily cuts. These tend to be a rather dull pink in color with a characteristic muted sheen.

However, many consumers are drawn to bright cherry red, and pay a premium for that lucky color.

"That's good stuff, too," Tamashiro said.

Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com or 535-2412.