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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, February 9, 2003

Aloha shirt stars in coffee-table art book

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Books Editor

The aloha shirt — the garment Hawai'i invented — has been the subject of a number of excellent books in recent years. Now two historians have joined forces to produce yet another: It's "The Art of the Aloha Shirt" by textile specialist Linda B. Arthur and Bishop museum archivist DeSoto Brown.

Arthur, who recently left the University of Hawai'i to become chairwoman of the Washington State University Department of Apparel, Merchandising and Interior Design, wrote a comprehensive previous textbook, "Aloha Attire: Hawaiian Dress in the 20th Century." This attractive coffee-table book, however, has a narrower focus: the history of the aloha shirt, its fabric, cut and manufacture from its inception in the 1930s to the wacky '60s, characterized by reverse prints, op-art prints, faux tapa cloth in electric colors and those ridiculous aloha print jumpsuits for men.

The book details the many strands that eventually wove themselves into the shirts — the availability of Asian textiles, Hollywood ideas about Hawai'i, inexpensive hand tailoring, our steamy climate and the general sense that button-down collars didn't fit into our lifestyle (real or imagined). The writing is clear and readable. Older kama'aina will enjoy the memories the book provokes (oh, those Alfred Shaheen designs!) and pretty much everybody will learn a thing or two in reading this.

The design of the book, by Danvers Fletcher, is everything it should be, offering crisp, bright illustrations and photos, clear and logical arrangements of type and artwork, restrained and consistent use of typefaces, informative and well-laid-out sidebars that layer the information, allowing the browsing reader to find tidbits of interest.

Fletcher resists the temptation to use too many computerized graphic tricks. Good book design doesn't announce itself, but makes the book a visual joy to consume. This one certainly hits that mark.