Favorite spots will satisfy that sweet tooth

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Reviewer

Illustration by Greg Taylor The Honolulu Advertiser

February has long been regarded as the month of love and romance, and the holiday first began to be celebrated in its modern form, with exchanges of heartfelt, handwritten notes and handmade greetings, in the 17th and 18th centuries. The printed-card business — and all the other trappings — came into popularity in the mid-19th century with mass-produced valentine cards.

The food component of Valentine's Day leans toward the sweet — perhaps a reason why a special loved one is often referred to as "sweetheart." These foods differ from ones that are associated with sexiness (aphrodisiacs) but they are related. Aphrodisiacs may be classified in two principal groups: 1) psycho-physiological (visual, aural, tactile, olfactory) and 2) internal (as a result of food, alcoholic drinks, love potions, drugs, medical preparations). I don't know about you, but I don't need a lot to get me going. The word "lunch" usually does it for me.

It's probably too late to plan an outing for the evening, but Valentine's Day conjures up images of sweet delights, so here's a guide to some of our favorite spots for desserts, eat in and take out:

Liliha Bakery (515 North Kuakini St., 531-1651) is a charming throwback to the old days, a combination diner and bakery. You can pretty much go there any time of the day or night (but they're closed from 8 p.m. Sundays to 6 a.m. Tuesdays). Pick up their famous coco puffs, a food of the gods — chocolate-stuffed cream puffs topped with Chantilly cream.

Plumeria Beach Cafe (at the Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawaii, 739-8760) has a fabulous dessert buffet ($9.75, including coffee or tea) at lunchtime and dinnertime with no less than a dozen choices, including warm bread pudding with a sweet and silky creme Anglaise, tiramisu, fruit tarts, Linzer torte, custards, brownies, chewies, creamies and crunchies.

Tiki's Grill & Bar (at the Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel, 923-8454) has pastry chef Ron Viloria to thank for special creations such as assorted creme brulee ($5.95 — Kahlua, ginger-lime, and vanilla bean were the trio of flavors I tasted), with fanned and sugared strawberries as the colorful and edible garnish. You never know what's coming out of the kitchen; Viloria likes to run specials that showcase his inventiveness. One example: mascarpone and pistachio paste-filled wontons, with vanilla-bean ice cream in cantaloupe soup, flavored with lemongrass and the zest of lemon and lime. Wowee!

Meritage (Restaurant Row, 529-8686) relies upon pastry chef Ashley Nakano to tease us into temptation. Her souffle of the day ($7) is a signature creation; one night it was a to-die-for pumpkin, the next it was a version flavored with Amaretto, and also one flavored with espresso. Her macadamia mocha mousse cake ($5) and passionfruit cheesecake ($5) are good, too.

Beginning in March, Meritage will offer a nightly dessert bar from 5 to 9 that will include cobblers, cakes, creme brulee, warm and cold desserts, and fruits with dessert wines to accompany the sweets.

Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.