15 things every well-dressed island man needs to have

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Fashion Writer

The well-dressed island man doesn't have to parade down Bishop Street as if it were a Milan runway, wearing Prada's '60s-style psychedelic-print shirt peeking out from under a trendy gray flannel jacket. (In fact, he might get laughed off the sidewalk.) Nor does he have to wear a three-piece suit with matching tie and handkerchief to his sporadically air conditioned Kaka'ako office. (The dry-cleaning bills could be a killer.)

All of the clothes and accessories pictured here are from Neiman Marcus. But it doesn't matter if your budget is $500 or $5,000 — buy the best basics you can afford. Eugene Tanner • The Honolulu Advertiser

However, there are some wardrobe staples that every well-dressed man, regardless of where he works, should invest in. These are not trendy pieces. They are basics that will never go out of style.

"Whether you're spending $500 or $5,000, the components should be the same," said Vince Motas, Men's Department manager at Neiman Marcus. "The important thing is to wear what complements you. Wear the cuts that flatter your physique."

As long as you know how to recognize quality and what is well made, it doesn't matter if you buy it at Banana Republic, Macy's or Neiman Marcus.

However, when it comes to the classics, it's wise to aim for as much quality as you can afford.

With advice from several astute personal shoppers and men's wear buyers, we've chosen 15 items every island man should have in his wardrobe, from head to toe:

1. Navy blazer or suit. Navy is the most versatile color. Motas says black is more cutting-edge and is technically evening wear, while navy is classic and timeless, and works for day into evening. A double-breasted jacket is better for tall men with broad shoulders: 5-foot-10 is usually the minimum height for a double-breasted jacket.
2. White dress shirt. While most men prefer to buy their shirts off the shelf without trying them on, the fit can make a big difference, and is especially important in our climate, where jackets are often removed during the day. Do you look better in a tapered or boxy style? Does a high collar drive you crazy? Do you prefer a cuff with a cufflink? Are the sleeves so long they bunch up under your blazer?
3. Blue dress shirt.
4. Tailored aloha shirt. This is not a themed shirt such as those with classic cars, cocktails or motorcycles prints. It's also not too big or loose. It should fit well and be worn tucked in or left out. This would not double as something you would wear to the beach.
5. Business-style necktie. This is not whimsical or crazy — no Tasmanian devils or nude women. Go for a small, conservative print in a classic color such as burgundy, blue or yellow. Lisa George, Macy's By Appointment manager, prefers "an edgy tie to go with a pair of edgy socks. Find a color that sparks them both."
6. Charcoal-gray dress pants. They are versatile and go with any of the shirts mentioned above. Summer-weight wool is the best fabric for investment pants. It travels well, breathes, holds the crease and drapes beautifully.
7. Khaki dress pants in summer-weight wool, gabardine or other more formal fabric.
8. Casual khakis in cotton twill that drapes well. (On the high end, Polo makes good ones, and on the lower end, Dockers work well.)
9. Black dress belt that can go into evening.
10. Brown sporty or more casual belt. Or look for a good reversible belt that's black on one side and brown on the other.
11. Calfskin wallet and business-card holder add a polished, professional look.
12. Nice portfolio or briefcase for a neater, more organized presentation than a pile of papers tucked under the arm.
13. Black dress shoes that lace up.
14. Brown lace-up or slip-on shoes that are more casual, such as loafers, Skechers or Bostonians.
15. Dress watch. This is not your diving watch with a rubber watchband. Invest in a metal watch. Motas recommends matching the metal in your watch with the metal buttons on your blazer, shoe buckle and belt buckle.

• Belt should always match shoes.
• Socks look best if they match the pants. (Typically, the more muted the better when it comes to business socks, so stay with solid colors or tone on tone and leave the prints for casual wear.)
• Ties should complement the outfit and not become a major fashion statement.

Sound complicated? Actually, it's a lot less complicated to be well-dressed in Hawai'i than on the Mainland. At least we don't have to worry about four seasons.

When in doubt, don't hesitate to ask a salesman or rely on the expertise of a personal shopper. These trained professionals can help you through the maze of men's wear.