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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, February 21, 2003

Hoku's new chef serves up culinary creativity

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawaii executive chef Wayne Hirabayashi sprinkles powdered sugar on the dessert sampler at Hoku's, under the eye of chef Joshua Nudd. The kitchen at Hoku's is in full view of the diners, as is the ocean vista. Nudd recently took over responsibility for the restaurant's operation.

Bruce Asato • The Honolulu Advertiser

Hoku's

Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawaii

Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. weekdays; dinner, 5:30-10 p.m. nightly; Sunday brunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

739-8780

Very Good

The highly regarded Hoku's at the Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawaii has hired a new chef, Joshua Nudd, meaning it was time to pay a visit, my last review of the restaurant having been about 3 1/2 years ago. Executive chef Wayne Hirabayashi continues to oversee everything culinary on the property, including Nudd, who in turn is responsible for all creative and operational matters at Hoku's.

The place is still as lovely as ever; clean and contemporary, yet warm at the same time. The same quietly efficient exhibition-style kitchen is on your right as you enter the establishment. Thankfully, the movement of the busy kitchen never gets in your way, visually or aurally. If you're visiting for dinner, get there before the sun sets to take full advantage of the ocean views.

When you're seated, a basket of warm rolls and a small crock of 'ahi poke dip are placed on your table. The dip is creamy and rich yet quite light, with a bit of sweetness and a touch of saltiness, and not at all fishy as the name might suggest. You won't miss the butter or the olive oil you may be accustomed to receiving from other restaurants.

For a first course, try the sushi and sashimi plate ($15), which includes ebi (prawn) and salmon sushi, a California roll, with 'ahi and shiromi (white fish) sashimi. The grilled scallops with taro gnocchi and sage ($15) is quite an interesting dish teamed up with crispy pieces of sweetbreads around the plate, an odd match, and a tomato-based sauce that contained bits of pancetta and Swiss chard. This dish didn't hit the high notes on flavor, but gets a nod for creativity.

Kiawe-grilled foie gras ($17) is placed on a crunchy ciabatta crouton, served with Waimanalo microgreens and topped with papaya-vanilla chutney. The vanilla flavor threw me momentarily, but all in all, this dish was quite good, if not stellar.

Speaking of stellar, the warm lobster and hearts of palm salad ($20) is an award winner in my book. Romaine hearts make up the base, with julienned strips of fresh hearts of palm, paper-thin shaved celery root, and tiny and flavorful golden beets (with an orangey-yellow hue), and of course, a generous serving of luscious lobster ... all of this drizzled with truffle vinaigrette. A beautiful salad if ever there was one.

The Thai-infused wok-fried lobster and clams ($34.50) sounded fantastic but proved bland. The individual ingredients were all prepared well, but there was no Thai-style zing. Green papaya, eggplant, kai choi, and jasmine lemongrass rice completed the dish. The Atlantic lobsters are raised in Kona; the consistency is the same as genuine Maine lobster, but the famous sweetness of those Eastern beauties wasn't there. A few weeks later when I returned, this dish had been stricken from the menu.

A herb-crusted fresh island catch (market price — one night it was onaga at $36) was excellent, married with creamed spinach and a bed of garlic smashed potatoes. The sauce was a reduction of red wine, cranberry and shallots. This is the kind of dish that makes a meal.

And when the meal comes to an end, Hoku's dessert sampler ($8.75 per person) is the way to go, offering tastes of several of their sweets. Lemongrass creme brulee, banana tiramisu, sugarcane ice cream, assorted sorbets, fresh fruit compote, creme caramel, and melting chocolate cake with coffee ice cream all were impressive. Whatever they place in front of you at dessert time will be a winner.

It's clear why Hoku's, celebrating its seventh anniversary on March 3, is so well thought of. The room is pretty and the food is consistently very good. I particularly appreciate the unusual silverware and china; at times you may have three or four different-shaped plates, platters and bowls on your table. The staff is a well-oiled machine, friendly, courteous and knowledgeable. Management strolls around and briefly chats with customers — a nice touch carried out quickly and quietly; you can tell they care here.

Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.