OFF THE SHELF
Many find flavor of reduced-fat cheeses falls short

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Use parmigiano reggiano cheese sparingly as a garnish if flavor is important. Advertiser library photo

Low-fat, nonfat and reduced-fat hard cheeses — most made from nonfat milk with various additives to improve flavor and texture — have become more common in supermarkets. The technology used to create these cheeses has improved, but many cheese-lovers still complain that lower-fat cheeses can't match full-fat taste, have a rubbery texture and don't melt properly.

In general, full-fat hard cheeses should be a special-occasion-only ingredient in low-fat diets. In choosing whether and when to use hard cheeses in a low-fat diet, consider:

Fat content. In general, choose cheeses with fewer than 5 grams of fat per ounce. Natural American cheddar has about 9 grams of fat per ounce; reduced-fat cheddars may dip as low as 3 grams per ounce. Note wording on the label: fat-free or non-fat (meaning less than half a gram of fat per serving); low-fat (meaning 3 grams or fewer per serving); or less fat or reduced fat (25 percent less fat by volume than the full-fat product). Be sure to note whether fat content is given per ounce or per serving.

How the cheese will be used. Reduced-fat cheeses generally don't melt very well; use them in fresh preparations, in sandwiches or as a topping.

The desired flavor. If cheese flavor is important to the recipe, use the full-fat version, but use less of it. In many recipes, such as casseroles, the amount of cheese can be cut by half without ill effect. Or use a very potently flavored cheese (parmesan, romano, blue) sparingly as a garnish.

The "deprivation" factor. Will cheese be missed if it's left out entirely? Is seeing a smattering of cheese grated on top of the dish important, even if it's bland-tasting?

A number of hard white cheeses lend themselves well to fat reduction, including mozzarella, swiss and jarlsberg.

Fat content of some common full-fat hard cheeses: American, 9 grams per ounce; colby, 9 grams per ounce; edam and gouda, 8 grams per ounce; jarlsberg, 7 grams per ounce; monterey jack, 8 grams per ounce; part-skim mozzarella, 5 grams per ounce; roquefort, 8.5 grams per ounce; Swiss, 8 grams per ounce; parmesan, 7.5 grams per ounce.