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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, July 2, 2003

OFF THE SHELF
Pepper up meals with a radish in the right place

By Renee Schettler
Washington Post

The pepperiness of a radish is a function of age and variety; informed radish eaters take a judicious nibble before committing to an entire bite. Fresh radishes should appear to be crisp and firm and should not yield to mild pressure. If the greens are still attached, look for sprightly, not slimy, leaves.

Trim and discard the leaves. Rinse the radishes, scrubbing to remove any dirt, then pat dry. Transfer them to a plastic bag lined with a paper towel to absorb excess moisture. Refrigerate for up to one week.

Radishes that are particularly harsh in flavor or somewhat limpid in texture will benefit from a two-hour soak in an ice bath.

A staple of crudite platters, the radish is served raw for good reason: Its crunch and peppery smack lend that certain something to salads, sandwiches and hors d'oeuvres.

The radish has an affinity for acidic vinaigrettes, notably the sweetness of citrus (particularly orange and lemon) and the mildness of rice and sherry vinegars. Tender greens take well to thinly sliced radishes and a drizzle of a lemony vinaigrette. A Southwestern slaw gets hotter with shredded radishes along with julienned carrots, jicama and green apple dressed with lemon, lime or orange juice.

Radishes also take well to the cooling blandness of a smear of soft cheese or a spoonful of cream dressing.

All that said, those who have not tried to give radishes a quick turn in a skillet are missing out on something surprisingly special. The color and flavor both fade a shade, taking the root's presence down to innocuous but still noteworthy. Just sauté trimmed, scrubbed whole radishes in melted butter with a pinch of salt and sugar, about 3 minutes; then add 1/2 cup chicken stock, cover and simmer 10-15 minutes; uncover and simmer until the liquid reduces to a shiny glaze.