OFF THE SHELF
Paler-fleshed nectarines, peaches carry sweet taste

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

These low-acid, high-sugar peaches are sweeter than their yellow-fleshed cousins. New hybrids have been developed and plantings have increased, so expect to see more white-fleshed fruit. One reason is that home growers and food writers have been spreading the word of the white-fleshed varieties' exceptional flavor and juiciness. In the past, commercial growers believed that consumers wanted "peachy" color and so rejected paler fruit. Those new, flat "doughnut" varieties, with their almond flavor, are white-fleshed peaches. Also, some varieties of white peach or nectarine have a greenish skin, with no blush, which may cause consumers to think they're unripe.

Actually, white peaches are among the earliest varieties in history, dating back to the 1600s in France, and the 1700s in America, according to Garden Compass magazine.

WNBC columnist "Produce Pete" warns that white-fleshed peaches and nectarines (the two fruit are genetically almost identical and interchangeable in cooking) ripen and soften quickly, and may not stand up as well to cooking or canning. He recommends tossing them gently to warm them through instead of poaching or stewing them. Also, because of their lack of acidity, they may not offer the piquant flavor you're looking for in some cooked dishes.

Three to four medium fruit are in a pound and yield 2 to 3 cups chopped or sliced. Most of the vitamins in a peach or nectarine are in the skin.

One way to use a fresh white peach or nectarine: Make a Bellini. The authentic drink calls for three to four parts cold prosecco (a dry Italian sparkling wine) to one part chilled peach or nectarine juice (seed and skin fruit, whir in blender; strain through cheesecloth). Taste and season with a little superfine sugar. A different dry sparkling white wine can be substituted.