Azorean Portuguese like their food spicy

By J.M. Hirsch
Associated Press

Iria Gronke says the food of her island home is different than the cuisine of the Portuguese mainland. Associated Press

"This island in the 16th century was a very important stop between India and Lisbon on the spice trade route," she said, gingerly picking the bones from the steaming flesh of several pounds of freshly boiled salt cod.

"Azorean food has more flavor to it, especially this island. More spices are added to it — cinnamon, cumin and cloves."

Gronke, who is writing a book about Azorean cooking, said sailors found an easy currency in the spices and used it to trade for alcohol and other services while in port among the group of nine Portuguese islands in the North Atlantic.

The sailors, often from Britain and Spain, also left behind their own traditions, explaining why oxtail soup and puddings compete in popularity with the region's abundant seafood offerings, she said.

But the Azores' semitropical ocean setting gives it more than just a bounty from the sea. The islands also are blessed with a lush landscape of gentle hills studded with stone walls and hydrangeas.

Between the walls, cows and goats munch in vibrant green pastures. Their milk is made into tangy soft cheeses that complement the vinho verde, the young, almost effervescent white wine of Portugal.

Gronke, who is 36 and grew up on Terceira, an island of 56,000 people, considers herself a student of her culture, with food as her textbook. She laments that there are few cookbooks of Azorean cuisine, with even fewer in English.

She also doesn't like how most books lump together all Azorean cooking.

Gronke said it is important that the distinct personality of the islands be preserved so that future generations think of themselves as Azoreans as well as Portuguese.

"What I see so far in English are collections of recipes from mainland Portugal and a couple of the islands, but they don't say which islands the recipes are from," she said. "There are nine islands, and each one has its own way of doing things."

Gronke's book will be a collection of recipes from her grandmother, who raised Gronke from when she was 5.

She recognizes that part of developing a cultural identity is knowing the food of your people. While many dishes are popular throughout Portugal, Gronke said Azorean cooks like her grandmother had a special touch that shouldn't be lost.

Of course, there are challenges to putting down on paper recipes known only in one's heart.

"You watch so many times growing up, you don't use measurements. You just know. You just feel it," she said. "Grandmother never named anything."

No matter what the dishes are named, cod likely will figure prominently in Gronke's work.

"Cod used to be the food of the peasants," she said. "There are 365 recipes for cod. Since it was eaten mostly by poor people, they had to change it so they wouldn't have to eat the same thing over and over again."

So ubiquitous is cod in Portugal, there are shops (called bacalhau) that sell nothing but salted fillets — large slabs of fish that have been salted and dried. After soaking and cooking, salt cod is a meatier in texture than fresh seafood.

Before salt cod can be eaten, it must have the salt washed from the flesh, a process that takes at least 12 hours. Gronke praises a recently introduced product, salt cod fillets that are sold desalted and frozen.

Asked to share one of her grandmother's salt cod recipes, Gronke headed to the kitchen of the cozy cottage she shares with her American husband, who is a counselor at the U.S. Air Force school on the island's military base.

As she pulls potatoes and herbs from her pantry, she shrugs when asked the name of the dish.

"Grandmother's codfish. It's just something I saw her prepare," she said.

An hour later, Gronke has married the delicate yet firm flakes of cod to well-seasoned potato chunks. The oil of the fish and the starchy water of the potatoes create a simple yet delicious sauce that ties the dish together.

It is simply Grandmother's cod fish, and it is a part of Gronke and this island's history.

Gronke's recipe calls for salt cod that has been soaked in water about 12 hours to remove most of the salt. To soak, place the cod in a large bowl of cold water in the refrigerator. Change the water several times during soaking. Most packages of salt cod include soaking instructions.

The recipe also can be adapted for fresh cod, though the texture of the fish is different. To mimic the flavor of the dried cod, generously salt the fish before adding it to the garlic and scallions. Because fresh fish is more tender, it will be mostly unnecessary to break it into flakes, as directed in the recipe for salted cod.

Grandmother's Codfish

• 2 1/2 pounds salt cod that has been soaked overnight and drained
• 3/4 cup whole parsley (stalks and leaves intact)
• 1 medium leek
• 6 medium potatoes
• 3 medium carrots
• Salt
• 3 cups broccoli florets
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• 8 scallions, white and green parts diced
• 3 large cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black
• pepper

Place the fish in a large stockpot and cover generously with water. Add 1/2 cup parsley and the whole leek. Set the pot over a medium-high flame and bring to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes, or until fish easily flakes.

When the fish is done, use a slotted spoon to remove it from the water and place on a plate to cool. Discard the parsley and leek.

Meanwhile, peel the potatoes and cut into 1-inch chunks. Cut the carrots into similar pieces. Combine the potatoes, carrots and 1/4 cup parsley in a medium pot and cover generously with water. Add a pinch of salt and bring to a boil over a high flame. Cook until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. During the final 4 minutes, add the broccoli to blanch it.

When the vegetables are done, drain and set aside, covered with foil to keep warm. Once the fish is cool enough to touch, break it into small flakes and remove any bones or skin.

Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over a medium flame. Add the scallions, garlic and black pepper, and cook for about 30 seconds, or until scallions are tender.

Reduce the flame to low and add the cod to the pan. Toss gently to coat cod with scallions and oil. Be careful not mush the fish. Heat 3 to 5 minutes to warm the cod.

To serve, arrange boiled vegetables in a platter or bowl. Spoon fish over them. Taste and season with additional salt and pepper, if needed. Makes 6 servings.