Old technology produces fast, nutritious meals

• Risotto recipe a good way to break in pressure cooker

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Hard vegetables Stove-top boiling: 20-30 minutes Pressure cooker: Whole, small beets: 20-23 minutes*, Whole small red potatoes: 15-16 minutes*, Whole large chunks of carrots: 14-15 minutes*

Dry beans (presoaked 4-8 hours) Stove-top boiling: 40 minutes to an hour Pressure cooker: Pinto beans: 14-16 minutes, Kidney beans: 10-12 minutes*

Brown rice Stove-top steaming: 40-45 minutes Pressure cooker: 24-30 minutes* White rice takes about the same amount of time as the conventional method. * These figures include 10 minutes to bring cooker up to high pressure.

Recommended reading Lorna Sass' "Cooking Under Pressure," "The Pressured Cook," "Great Vegetarian Cooking Under Pressure" and "Complete Vegetarian Kitchen"

"Instead of fast food, it's fast food that's nutritious," said Mimi MacNaughton, senior manager at The Compleat Kitchen, a shop that carries the highly regarded Kuhn Rikon brand of pressure cooker, pricey but quiet and full of safety features.

She and other cookware specialists, such as Tony Lee of the Executive Chef shop, agree that there has been an uptick in interest in pressure cookers of late: from vegetarians, who use them to cut the time in cooking whole foods such as grains and beans; from working cooks, who want to prepare old-fashioned, stick-to-the-ribs meals but aren't home to watch a pot simmer all day; and from Islanders who use the cookers to replicate the steamy imu earth oven when making laulau.

But mention pressure cookers to most folks and you'll get either a blank stare or a stereotype.

Stereotype 1: Pressure cookers are dangerous.

The new generation of pressure cookers include multiple safety features such as locking devices that make it impossible for you to open the lid while it's under full pressure, and back-up valves that release excess pressure if you let the pot overheat. A key to safety, in addition to these features, is setting a timer so you can't walk away and forget about what you're doing.

Stereotype 2: Pressure-cooked food is overcooked glop.

Vegetarian chef Alyssa Moreau of Honolulu acknowledges that, while it's certainly possible to overcook food in a pressure cooker (just as with any other cooking tool), one of the greatest assets of this cooking method is preserving moisture, color, texture and nutrients by cooking at top speed.

Stereotype 3: You don't need a pressure cooker if you've got a microwave oven.

Of course, you need neither, but if you've got the space and enjoy cooking, both are useful in different ways.

The microwave's strengths are such that I do not consider it a cooking appliance, but an adjunct, useful for steaming white rice, reheating leftovers, melting chocolate or butter, boiling a small amount of water or crisping bacon.

Pressure cookers perform a much wider variety of cooking tasks, from making soups and stews to risottos and even steamed bread pudding. In some cases (cooking brown rice, for example), the pressure cooker is faster than the microwave and gives the food a better texture.

Pressure cookers work by bringing — well — air pressure to bear on food, along with great heat. The combination, provided you've included the right amount of liquid, allows tissues to break down more rapidly but retains juices that contain flavor and nutrients. With the right amount of cooking time and liquid, you can achieve a range of textures, from wonderfully nutty brown basmati rice pilaf to silky creamed beans.

A pressure cooker is nothing more than a pan that goes on the stove top with a special lid that, with the aid of a rubber gasket, creates a tight seal, allowing pressure to build up as the pot is heated. A valve system (there are several types) allows steam to escape to keep the pressure from getting too high.

You place food and liquid in the pot, lock on the lid, bring the pot up to pressure (indicated by the sight and sound of steam escaping, or by other means with various brands) and cook for the recommended amount of time. Then release the pressure either by turning off the heat and letting the temperature drop naturally, or using a "quick-release method" — putting the entire pot in the sink and turning on cold, running water, which brings the pressure down in seconds.

You can pay a lot or a little for a pressure cooker — as little as $50 to in excess of $200, depending on the brand, the material used (aluminum or stainless steel) and the accessories included. Don't stint: The better-quality brands are safer and longer lasting. A good pressure cooker will last the average household a decade or more with the occasional purchase of a new gasket. Most experts recommend stainless steel over aluminum.

Moreau, a personal chef, uses her pressure cookers several hours every workday — far more than the average household. She owns three pressure cookers — Sagor and Rapida brands — and replaces them in after year or two.

One thing you need to acquire along with the pressure cooker is the right attitude: You're learning a new method of cooking; it will take time; there will be anxious moments and failures. "You learn the language, and then you're comfortable with it," said Moreau.

I got my pressure cooker set for less than $20 at Liberty House's going-out-of-business sale; it includes a large soup pot and a smaller, squat one with the pressure lid as well as a glass-topped lid, and a trivet and basket for steaming. I use the smaller pot constantly for rice or vegetables for my small household.

MacNaughton suggests that if you're not getting a multipot set, you buy a hefty seven-liter size because the pressure cooker cannot safely be filled more than three-quarters full; you need more capacity for soups and stews.

Moreau likes the old-fashioned "jiggle" type pressure valve that makes noise as the steam escapes; the sound helps keep her on task, although she uses a timer as well.

I was nervous the first time I brought my pot up to full pressure, not sure if it was making the right noise or if the pressure was too high. But within a couple of weeks, you can prepare soft vegetables (five or less minutes at high pressure, with just a half-cup or so of water) and harder ones (10 to 15 minutes, with fl cup of water).

Pressure-cooked brown basmati rice has become a standard in our home — quickly sauté 1 cup brown basmati rice in a little olive oil in the bottom of the pressure-cooker pot, add 2 cups boiling water or broth, bring to full pressure, cook 14 minutes, quick-release under cold running water.

Moreau swears by the pressure cooker for making risotto: It cuts the cooking time in half, and there's no stirring, either. Risotto also illustrates a technique you soon learn with pressure-cooking: Do the heavy lifting in the pressure cooker, then finish with more delicate ingredients on the stove. High-fat ingredients that burn easily, soft-textured ingredients that turn to mush rapidly (chopped vegetables, minced herbs, butter, cheese, cream) should be stirred in after pressure-cooking, and allowed to cook gently for 5 or 10 minutes on top of the stove. (The cookers retain considerable heat even after the pressure is released, so there's little wasted time.)

One accessory you'll need with a pressure cooker: a cookbook with a general guide to pressure-cooking times for specific foods.

Risotto recipe a good way to break in pressure cooker

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Picking the right pressure cooker Don't use an old pressure cooker. Buy a big enough pot (5 or 6 quarts is recommended) because you can only fill it three-quarters full. Choose a model that can achieve 15 pounds per square inch of pressure. Anything less negates the time savings. Choose a stainless steel, triple-wall-bottom pressure cooker over aluminum; these heat fast, retain heat, and do not warp or pit. Select a reliable brand. You'll need to replace parts periodically. A cover-locking system is a must (prevents you from taking the cover off when food is at pressure). Additional safety features prevent pressure from building inside the cooker if the cover is not properly closed. Double-handled cookers (one long, one short, opposite each other) are easier to move around. Avoid cookers with nonstick finishes. The high heat causes the finish to degrade rapidly. Invest in a good timer. Pressure cookers readily burn food or overcook it unless you keep track of time. Read the manufacturer's directions carefully and thoroughly.

Risottos are ridiculously easy with a pressure cooker; chewy-creamy, no stirring and way less than 30 minutes effort. This is one of vegetarian cook Alyssa Moreau's favorites. She uses vegetable broth, but you can use any broth or stock you prefer. She recommends other risottos found in Lorna Sass' books because they're generally packed with vegetables and lighter on the dairy foods than most risotto recipes. If you're making a conventional rich risotto, you would saute the rice as usual, add the bubbling broth, wine or water; pressure-cook 5 minutes; then quick-release and stir in added ingredients (vegetables, seafood, etc.) and butter, cream or cheese at the very end, on the stove top.

Asian-style Risotto

• 1 cup arborio rice
• 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, minced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 sweet onion, chopped
• 1 tablespoon light oil
• 1/2 cup fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced thin
• 1 carrot, diced
• 2 celery stalks, diced
• 1 fresh tomato, chopped
• 1 small can water chestnuts, chopped
• 5 cups vegetable broth
• 2 tablespoons shoyu
• 2 tablespoons fresh basil, julienned
• 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped
• 1 pound asparagus, trimmed and sliced in 1-inch pieces on diagonal (or 2 cups bok choy, chopped into 1-inch pieces)

For garnish:

• Green onion
• White or black sesame seeds
• Drizzle of sesame oil

Place broth in pan and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, heat oil in pressure cooker, add the ginger, garlic, onion, shiitake, carrots and celery. Cook for a few minutes then add the rice, tomato and water chestnuts. Stir, then add simmering broth. Cover and bring up pressure. Reduce heat just a bit and cook for 5 minutes. Quick-release the lid by turning off the heat and removing the entire pressure cooker to the kitchen sink, then running cold water over the top until pressure is down. Test rice for doneness; rice should be translucent, soft and chewy in texture. The rice may need more cooking — five minutes or so on the stove top.

Place pressure cooker on burner again, add the asparagus or bok choy, basil, cilantro, shoyu and simmer until the the vegetables are done. If it seems soupy don't worry, the liquid will continue to absorb as the risotto cools. Top with sliced green onion, sesame seeds and drizzle with sesame oil.

Serves 4.