OFF THE SHELF
Fresh is best, but dried morels are pretty tasty, too

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Dried morels are good sauteed in butter or olive oil and drizzled over grilled meat. Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser

Dried morels, available here in the produce sections of supermarkets, aren't quite as wonderful — but they're nothing to sneer at. (We found the Melissa's brand at Safeway Beretania; 1/2 ounce for $7.95.)

To use dried morels, first reconstitute them: Immerse the morels in warm water for 20 minutes to an hour. Rinse in cold water, swishing around to remove any grit. Half an ounce of dried morels makes about a cup, reconstituted, and that's plenty to flavor a dish.

Morels are wonderful simply sauteed in butter or olive oil and drizzled over grilled meats, fish or tofu "steaks." Drop them into a plain white sauce or cream reduction and let them cook for a while, and the sauce takes on a deep, earthy, nutty flavor.

A quick dinner idea using morels is pasta with mushrooms and greens; a simpler version of a recipe by chef Micheal Chiarello can be found on the Melissa's Web site, www.melissas.com. Reconstitute 1 package of mushrooms and saute in olive oil until browned and even a little crusty; throw in some minced garlic and fresh or dried thyme and a half cup or so of chicken broth; allow to boil and reduce a bit. Then throw in a bunch of washed spinach or other greens and salt and pepper to taste; saute until wilted. Serve over hot fettucine topped with grated parmesan.