Posted on: Wednesday, June 11, 2003

EDITORIAL
Grass-fed beef may be latest Hawai'i niche

What has been somewhat of a gruesome blow for the U.S. beef industry may have a positive impact on a new boutique meat industry that capitalizes on Hawai'i's reputation for environmental purity.

The blow to the national industry is recent news about feeding practices on massive cattle operations on the Mainland that came to light in the wake of a case of "mad cow" disease in Canada.

That single case has caused a review of cattle-feeding techniques because the most likely way to infect a cow is to give it feed that contains byproducts of a previously infected animal. While the FDA has ruled on what animal byproducts can be recycled into animal feed, there are plenty of (legal) loopholes in the regulations.

It's likely that those regulations will be quickly tightened, so the issue is not so much whether such beef represents a health hazard. But the controversy will stimulate new interest in beef that are raised in a more "natural" manner.

That's where Hawai'i's recent venture into grass-fed beef comes in.

As reported recently by Advertiser Food Editor Wanda Adams, a small, grass-fed beef and lamb industry has emerged for the local market. Right now, the products end up mostly with high-end local restaurants and in gourmet sales.

But there is plenty of opportunity for growth, and concern over "industrial" methods of raising and feeding cattle may help.

Specialists argue that grass-fed beef is leaner, contains more cancer-fighting agents and — to some — has a more refined taste than other beef.

Now that last quality is clearly in the mind and tastebuds of the beholder. Some consumers may continue to prefer the tender, mild flavor of the beef we traditionally consume.

But the point is, there are alternatives. And they represent yet another way in which Hawai'i's agriculture industry can set aside a niche for itself that can, and should be, recognized nationally.