OFF THE SHELF
Pick and choose for best of the early strawberries

By Jeanne McManus
Washington Post

Strawberries aren't at peak season yet, but some already are in markets. Advertiser library photo

Most strawberries are packed in plastic or cardboard containers and covered with plastic, so it can be difficult to judge their worthiness. Look for color first: Bright red is a good start. Berries with whitish-green tops are likely to be underripe and bland. But even the most brilliant of strawberries can be flavorless. So turn the covered carton over and smell the bottom. If you get at least a scent of the fruit, that's a good start.

Size can be a seductive criterion for choosing. Those big, photogenic strawberries with stems are excellent for dipping in chocolate. But they rarely have much taste of their own. You're better off with whatever size seems ripe and fragrant.

Berries are best eaten right away. If you must store them, remove the plastic wrapping from the carton and refrigerate or spread them out on a baking dish, separating them, to keep mold from spreading from one berry to another.

Always wash strawberries, rinsing them lightly in cold water, just before using them. Remove the small hulls at the top and then, depending on their size and how they are to be used, keep them whole or cut them up. Ideally, berries should be served at room temperature, which allows their flavor to flourish. Then put them over ice cream or shortcake or toss them in a bowl with a little sugar or liqueur. Or pair them with balsamic vinegar, in a salad with spinach or fresh snow peas.