Historic Honolulu sites wow local visitors

By Will Hoover
Advertiser Staff Writer

Thousands took to the streets of Downtown Honolulu yesterday for the 9th Annual Capital Day Down Capitol Way celebration and a chance for a free visit to about a dozen of the city's historic sites and museums, including the Hawai'i State Capitol, St. Andrew's Cathedral and the Mission Houses Museum.

The Yoshida family of Pearl City, Kyle, 7, Kara, 10, Elienne and Ken, got a brief history of Washington Place from docent Fred Cachola, left, during their visit yesterday as part of the "A Capital Day Down Capitol Way" museum and historic sites tour. Bruce Asato • The Honolulu Advertiser

For some it was a chance to take a peek at the inaugural exhibition at Honolulu's newest museum, the Hawai'i State Art Museum, in the Spanish-Mission style building at the corner of Hotel and Richards Streets. "Enriched by Diversity: the Art of Hawai'i," features works by 284 local artists.

Others were wowed by some of the lesser known stops along the tour, such as Honolulu Police Department Law Enforcement Museum, which, among other things, tells the real and fascinating story of Chang Apana, a famous Honolulu police detective who became the model for the fictional sleuth Charlie Chan.

Joe and Jean Neuer of Kane'ohe had never heard of the Judiciary History Center at historic Ali'iolani Hale — Hawai'i's Supreme Court Building across the street from 'Iolani Palace. But once inside, they were quickly captivated, particularly by the martial law exhibit.

"We didn't realize this was here," Joe Neuer said. "This is amazing."

"Oh gosh, I remember those gas masks," Jean Neuer said, who, just like kids in Hawai'i, wore such a mask during air raid drills as a grade schooler in the 1940s, when her father was stationed with the Navy in Panama.

"There was a smell of old canvas, but there was also some chemical odor as well. It was pretty hideous. And you couldn't see out of them. But, you were not supposed to take them off."

After perusing the exhibit, she concluded that martial law in Hawai'i during World War II seemed worse than anything she had experienced in Panama. She likened it to the "sense of panic and controlled paranoia in America since 9-11."

Meanwhile, over at 'Iolani Palace, official greeter Cindy Grace had counted 902 visitors by noon.

Joe and Jean Neuer of Kane'ohe took in the martial law display at the Judiciary Building during their visit as part of the downtown sites' open house tour yesterday. After seeing the photo at left, Jean Neuer recalled having to wear the gas masks as a child in the Panama Canal Zone in the 1940s. Bruce Asato • The Honolulu Advertiser

While the majority of those who toured America's only Royal Palace seemed pleased to marvel at how Hawai'i's monarchy had lived, at least one person had come for a different reason.

"I would recommend this to anyone visiting or living here if they haven't seen it already," said Don Ray. "It's a museum, and it shows how Hawai'i's rulers ... how should I put this? ... I'm an anti-monarchist, myself. And this just shows you how rich they lived at the natives' expense."

At Washington Place, docent Fred Cachola shook the hand of virtually every person who walked through the door. For a lucky few, Cachola talked story, answered any and all questions, and even went so far as to sing a personal rendition of "Aloha O'e."

Cachola said he's saddened that more O'ahu residents don't show up for these events. He estimates that nearly 90 percent of those that do come are tourists.

"'Iolani Palace has Kama'aina Sunday, which is free to people who live here the first Sunday of every month," he said. "But I think they should have Kama'aina Sunday at all these places. I rejoice when I see local people."

Cachola was obviously pleased to see Ken and Elienne Yoshida of Pearl City, who brought their two children Kara, 10 and Kyle, 7 to the historic home of Queen Lili'uokalani and the governors of Hawai'i.

"This is the first time we've done the Capital Day program," said Elienne. "We've had a good time. And we got to do the trolley ride. This has been a very good learning experience."

Still, Yoshida said she was disappointed that visitors aren't allowed in the upstairs quarters of the residence. Cachola explained that the upstairs rooms are used for office purposes these days. Undeterred, Yoshida repeated her museum improvement suggestion.

"People are fascinated with the upstairs because it was the private quarters," she said. "Now that the governor no longer lives up there, they could at least have one room, above the balcony, that overlooks the garden."

One way or the other, though, she said she and her family would be coming back.