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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, November 5, 2003

Some wines contain more sulfites than others do

By Frank Sutherland
Nashville Tennessean

One of the most frequent questions I receive is from people who say they have a reaction to sulfites in wine, with the most common problem being headaches from allergic reactions.

Here is one example:

"I recently returned from a vacation in Italy and discovered that the wine there does not have the sulfites that seem to be present in the wines we are able to purchase in the States.

"I was hoping that you might be able to help me find out where I would be able to buy imported wine without the sulfites. I was able to buy cabernets in Amalfi for just 6 euros per bottle, and I didn't have a headache the next day. Any information you could give me would be very helpful. Thank you."

The first answer I give is that I am not a doctor and do not give medical advice. Secondly, I tell people that it is very hard to find wine without any sulfites. Sulfites are sulfur-containing salts. The presence of sulfites means sulfur dioxide was introduced to the wine at some point in its production.

Sulfite deposits can come from sprays used to protect the grapes from disease and from various steps in the winemaking process. If the resulting wine has more than 10 parts per thousand, the label has to include the phrase, "Contains sulfites." Someone determined that amount was a threshold for people worried about sulfites.

I asked wine expert Elise Loehr Solima to explain further the sulfite issue:

"Sulfites are a necessary part of the wine-making process. All wines carry a certain amount of sulfites, due to the natural byproduct of fermentation. But in order to stabilize a wine, especially for shipment and longer-term drinkability, most winemakers add sulfites.

"The added sulfites work in two ways: inhibiting microbial action and also by binding to oxygen molecules, preventing oxidation and oxidative characteristics.

"Many wines in other parts of the world have no addition of sulfites for the mere fact that they will not be made to export or for long-term aging. Obviously, there is a cost factor in every step of the winemaking process, so the 'little guy' saves money by not having to add sulfites. Unfortunately for people who are asthmatic or suffer from severe allergies, these sulfites are problematic. For the rest of us ... Hallelujah, as this process allows us to drink some of the best wines in the world.

"Tell your reader to particularly avoid sweet, dessert-style wines, as these tend to be the highest in sulfites."

Of course, not all headaches result from sulfites. Some are related to a reaction to alcohol.