Romantic setting awaits Islanders
By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic
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| The Ocean House Restaurant at the Outrigger Reef on the Beach offers a menu of Pacific Rim and Hawai'i regional cuisine at its prime location on the water in Waikiki.
Deborah Booker • The Honolulu Advertiser Ocean House Restaurant Outrigger Reef on the Beach, Waikiki 2169 Kalia Road Dinner: 5 to10 p.m. 923-2277
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This dining nugget enjoys a prime beachfront location. The dining room is two-tiered, offering each diner a glowing view of sand and sea. Tiki torches set the mood and help to create a softly lit romantic setting.
The waiting room, dubbed The Library, is a cozy space that looks like a study in a lovely home. I enjoyed eavesdropping on conversations between staffers, tourists and Island residents there.
The menu is a blend of Pacific Rim and Hawai'i regional offerings. The pupu menu includes 'ahi katsu ($13) with wasabi ginger beurre blanc sauce — a dish that Russell Siu of 3660 on the Rise perfected. The Ocean House does a fine job of re-creating it. 'Ahi is wrapped with nori, coated lightly and flash-fried, then sliced and attractively arranged.
Coconut lobster skewers ($12) are served with sweet chili lime sauce. I realize this is a popular dish, but I think the coconut breading is a bit too substantial for the delicate shellfish. Plus, lobster is too dear to match with such a strong accompaniment. On the other hand, the seared peppered scallops ($9) are delicious, sautéed with domestic mushrooms in a soy sake butter sauce. You'll want to tear off a hunk of warm bread to sop up the sauce on this appetizer.
I loved the flavor of the Caesar salad ($7), but it is presented as one large bias-sliced heart of romaine lettuce, meaning you have to cut it apart yourself. The same ingredients, with lettuce served torn the usual way, would surely be a winner. The Maui onion and tomato salad ($6) was a triumph. Simple, excellent ingredients such as sweet Maui onion, red, ripe tomato and creamy sharp Gorgonzola cheese make this a not-to-miss dish. A drizzling of balsamic vinaigrette completes the pretty picture. Seafood chowder ($6) is the lone soup; it was generously portioned, subtly flavored and silky smooth in consistency.
Sugarcane 'ahi chops ($26) were highly recommended by our server. She explained that the chunks of 'ahi are pierced by pieces of cane, so they resemble chops, and grilled quite rare. The sugarcane is a neat idea and stimulates conversation. A ginger miso butter sauce and Maui onion mashed potatoes finish the plate.
Kahuku moi ($27) is prepared whole, either steamed or wok-fried, and is glazed with garlic black-bean sauce. Crab-stuffed mahimahi ($25) has a classical feel, baked and topped with béarnaise sauce. Hapu'upu'u($25) is Hawaiian sea bass, which here is sautéed with bananas and macadamia nuts in Frangelico sauce.
Parmesan-crusted opah ($24) is done as a piccata, with capers and butter sauce flavored with lemon and white wine. It's good to see interesting fish choices such as moi, opah and sea bass, in addition to the more common 'ahi and mahi.
I saved the best for last. Normally, you'd expect the seafood choices to be the star attraction at a seaside resort restaurant, but here, the superb Hawaiian salt slow-roasted prime rib steals the show. There are five cuts available, ranging from "lite" ($19) to the "pulehu" offering ($24) grilled with garlic and fresh herbs and on up to the ali'i cut ($27) for king-sized appetites like mine. The meat is juicy and drop-dead tender, served with creamed horseradish and Maui onion mashers. Order it.
Service is delivered in a smiling, aloha-filled way. Longtime operations director David Nagaishi, a humble and talented guy, is responsible for much of the success here. So venture into Waikiki and enjoy yourself at Ocean House.
Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.
