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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Wednesday, November 26, 2003

Pair these American wines with a turkey meal

By Michael Franz
Washington Post

Many people purchase nothing but American wines for Thanksgiving dinner.

Thanksgiving can be a very challenging meal for wine selection. Only a wine that is moderate in its own properties has any chance to avoid seeming extreme with one dish or another, so the wines I've recommended are medium-bodied rather than light or heavy.

American whites

• Tablas Creek Vineyard (Paso Robles, California) Cotes de Tablas Blanc 2002 ($25): This wine features notes of peaches and tropical fruits, with fresh acidity and interesting mineral undertones. Delicious.

• La Famiglia di Robert Mondavi (California) Pinot Grigio 2001 ($15): This wine is remarkably classy, with subtle apple fruit and notes of smoke and minerals. If $15 is too pricey for you, try Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi (California) Pinot Grigio 2002 ($8).

Pinot noirs

• Etude Wines (Carneros, California) 2000 ($45): Arguably pricey but indisputably gorgeous, this wine features perfectly ripened black-cherry fruit braced by fresh acidity and just the right touch of smoky oak.

• Morgan Winery (Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey, California) 2000 ($22): Lovely fruit recalling dark cherries and berries, with nice accents from smoky oak. Delicate in flavor and tender in texture.

• Kenwood Vineyards Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, California) 2001 ($14): Juicy, sweet red-cherry fruit with little wisps of smoky oak around the edges.

Assorted reds

• Seghesio (Sonoma County, California) Barbera 2001 ($23): Dark and juicy and full of blackberry flavor but still fresh, thanks to the grape's naturally strong acidity. This would be a perfect way to flummox the know-it-all at your table.

• Jest Red Cellars (California) Table Wine NV ($12): With very expressive, juicy flavors of red cherries and ripe strawberries and no discernable oak, this is a fresh choice.

• Seventh Moon Wines (California) Syrah 2001 ($8.50): With ripe-berry fruit that is rich, soft and flavorful but not overripe or jammy, this is a killer wine for the money.