Korean eatery Sis Kitchen is a gem in Kaimuki
By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic
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| Sis Kitchen, on 11th Avenue in Kaimuki, serves up a wide range of Korean dishes. What was once a nursery behind Big City Diner has been transformed into a colorful, family-run restaurant.
Deborah Booker • The Honolulu Advertiser Sis Kitchen 1137 11th Ave. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays 732-0902
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"Where should we eat?" was the collective question the bus full of tourists asked. I mentioned some of my favorite places for fine dining, Thai, pizza, Chinese and seafood, feeling helpful, while many scribbled names on pieces of paper or made entries into their PDAs. I knew many of these folks would be enjoying good food during their stay on the island.
So then, how did I find out about Sis Kitchen? Well, the other O'ahu resident on the tour, Geoff, mentioned that one of his favorite places is Sis Kitchen for Korean food. "Try the raw beef dish," Geoff excitedly told me enthusiastically.
The dish is called yookhwe ($9.95) and is an appetizer of seasoned shredded beef — the Korean version of steak tartare — flavored with sesame oil and soy sauce, garlic, scallions and sesame seeds. There's more to this dish, according to Geoff, but I'm a bit squeamish about raw flesh of any kind, so I did not try it. Thankfully, though, his thorough description allowed me to vicariously experience his favorite dish.
I loved the numerous satellite side dishes of small tastes called ban chahn that are graciously given to every table when customers are seated. Among my favorites were the steamed egg; dried sweet and crunchy shrimp; crispy, salty and sweet kelp chips; fish cake; potato nuggets; daikon; and of course, two kinds of cabbage kim chee — the familiar spicy red style and one dosed up with a spicy sesame oil. These myriad flavors make Korean dining feel as though you're getting more for your money.
Two appetizers I tried were the shrimp jun ($7.95) and mandoo ($5.95). The shrimp are coated in an egg batter, like flavorful little omelets. The mandoo or dumplings have a thicker than usual noodle casing, providing a satisfying chew. They're filled with beef, pork, tofu and vegetables, and may be ordered steamed or fried as you prefer.
The well-known Korean soups and rice dishes are on the menu, such as bibim kooksoo ($7.95) a glorious noodle soup topped with veggies and beef; and bibimbop ($7.95), the rice dish topped with shredded vegetables, beef and a fried egg.
I enjoyed the large garlic shrimp ($12.95); they're sautéed in butter with a generous amount of garlic. Miso butterfish ($12.95) is grilled and seasoned lightly, and the spicy squid ($9.95) lives up to its name; stir-fried and tender in hot chili-pepper sauce with celery, onions and zucchini.
The deliciously spicy barbecued pork ($10.95) is marinated before being grilled. The combo platter of bulgogi (sliced rib-eye steak) and dak gui (chicken) is a jam-packed heaping portion ($11.95), but my single favorite dish here is the boochoo jopchae ($9.95), a sautéed triumph of shredded pork with lots of fresh chives.
Two desserts are offered, at $4.95 each. One is a bowl of sweet red azuki beans, fruit cocktail, ice cream and small mochi chewies over crushed ice. The other dessert is a bowl of crushed ice with coffee flavor, vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, sweetened condensed milk, those marvelous mochi chewies and fresh berries. After a somewhat spicy meal, or on a warm day, such icy, cool, sweet and creamy treats hit the spot.
Sis Kitchen is tucked away in a courtyard of sorts, in the parking lot behind Big City Diner in Kaimuki. You may remember this space as a nursery until a couple years ago.
It has been transformed into a small gem of a place. It's clean and colorful, with bright yellow walls, modern, black tables and chairs, and lovely slate flooring.
The "Sis" part of the restaurant's name is short for "sisters" — seven sisters in all; however, only four of them work at the eatery.
Sun is the first name of the sister who took care of me both times I visited. I asked her if she was the boss and, without skipping a beat, she smilingly replied, "No, just a happy slave."
Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.
