Bras give a boost

• For the best fit, let expert help

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Fashion Writer

Tavia Perallon of Wahiawa models a bra designed by Honolulu Community College fashion student Sinavaiana Samuela. The designer used crushed glass with fairy wings of pink tulle, feather boa, rhinestones and snowflakes. Photos by Jeff Widener • The Honolulu Advertiser Benefits "Unhooked Hawai'i" Art and Fashion Show, Oct. 13i19 at Kahala Mall Center Court, free A fund-raiser will be held 5:30-9 p.m. Wednesday, Kahala Mall Center Court. $35 in advance or $40 event night; reservations and information: 732-7736

These are some of the materials Honolulu Community College fashion technology students used to craft wearable art in support of breast cancer research.

The imaginative and sometimes outrageous bras and bustiers will be featured in a fashion show sponsored by Morgan Beret at Kahala Mall for the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

Joy Nagaue, who heads up the fashion department at the college, told second-year students to design a bra or bustier, either from scratch or starting with an existing garment. "They were really inspired," she said. In addition, "It's been a great way for them to learn about breast cancer."

Copper leaves gave rise to "Dungeon Princess," by Kini Zamora of Kapolei. He crafted a corset using boning in the front and crisscrossing satin ribbons in the back, embellishing it with copper-colored beads. He completed the outfit with a tutu-style tulle skirt with a satin waistband. The Count Dracula collar was the finishing touch, as "I thought the halter alone seemed to need something more."

In memory of her grandmother, Gwendolyn Luke, who died of breast cancer in 1994, Shauna-Lei Luke of Mililani created a feminine look by hand-painting silk roses and placing them all over a bra and a choker.

Sisters Sinavaiana Samuela and Sue Shaffer of 'Ewa Beach wandered through a Ben Franklin store, picking up whatever struck their fancy. The result: a set of pink-tulle-and-feather fairy wings attached to a bra made of crushed glass.

Dana Shibuya of Kalihi bought bags of special pink and white Susan G. Komen M&Ms, got out her glue gun and fastened them to an old bra.

Sisters Kaliko and Lehua Fukumoto of Moanalua were inspired by their family crest, the cherry blossom. They also went "for an Asian theme, with the look of a strong woman fighting breast cancer." They bought a bustier, cut it up and punched grommets to lace it up the back. Seeking to use recycled materials, they shredded little squares of old muslin, then stitched them together in layers. They added a full-length tulle train embellished with pink ribbons fashioned into the symbol for the fight against breast cancer.

Kaliko Fukumoto of Moanalua, president of the college's Fashion Society, said the assignment "made us think about the people with breast cancer who need help. When you're given a specific assignment like that, it makes you proud and helps to inspire and motivate you. The limitations (of the assignment) helped to expand our creativity."

For the best fit, let expert help

Model and designer Shauna-Lei Luke of Mililani added silk roses to her design and paired it with a choker.

Natasha McKenzie of 'Aiea wears "Dungeon Princess," designed by Kini Zamora and inspired by copper leaves.

Model and designer Dana Shibuya of Mililani crafted this bra from special Susan G. Komen M&Ms.

Julie Hassel, owner and buyer of Morgan Beret, a fine lingerie and linen boutique in the Kahala Mall, and her store manager, Jennifer Bolivar-Ventresca, with more than 40 years of bra fitting experience between them, said the statistics have improved only slightly during the last few decades.

For one thing, the bra manufacturers who supply Morgan Beret (including Wacoal, La Perla, Le Mystere, Chantelle and Hanro) report: "36C is now more the norm than 34B. It's due to the increasing number of aging baby boomers, as well as general weight gain among American women."

Many other factors contribute to a change in bra size: birth control pills, menstrual cycles, childbirth and nursing, menopause, changes in metabolism or hormones, diet, exercise.

Women are often in denial regarding their change in bra size. Hassel said she will show them bras in the size they think they take, as well as the size she thinks is correct. She is seldom wrong. "Any time you go in you should request to be measured. I know that I myself have changed size four times in a decade."

Hassel said many older women choose a bra with little support because they feel it's more comfortable. However, with age — and childbirth — comes droop, and a bra without support exacerbates the problem. Here's a helpful guideline: "The height of your bust line should be midway between your elbow and shoulder. If you're drooping toward your elbow you have the wrong bra on."

Bra manufacturers have responded to the changing needs and sizes of American women. Morgan Beret carries sizes 30A to 44G. With the increase in plus size women, Hassel said, "A big trend is for larger cups, and now women want pretty bras in their size — whatever their size may be."

Trends in bras

"Intimate apparel is capitalizing on the acceptance of exposure," Hassel said. What used to stay inside, under another layer of clothing, is now posing as an outer garment.

In Hawai'i, molded cups are popular because we are such a camisole and T-shirt-oriented society. "You don't see lumps and bumps," she said. "They offer a fit and look for women who don't have a perfect shape. They give a nice, rounded shape so it's flattering. They can also give you a youthful look if you're drooping a bit."

A trend that's recently arrived from Europe: the bra strap as an accessory. They're colorful, embroidered or embellished with rhinestones. You can buy the straps and attach them to your favorite bra.

Bra fabrics are so pretty that women love to show them off under sheer clothing or let them peek out over the top of a blouse or T-shirt.

"Bustiers are now going from the boudoir to an evening out, and are flattering and comfortable because they offer additional support to both back and front," Hassel said.

Reflecting the trend for glamour so prevalent in outerwear, bras are lacy and ultra-feminine.

Current color trends are brown, taupe and black, with a contrasting bright. The most popular combination for the holiday season will be black and pink, a decidedly retro combo. For spring 2004, lingerie designers are putting turquoise and pink together.

An interesting Island trend: The No. 1 selling color in Hawai'i is nude, followed by black and white, whereas women on the Mainland prefer white, black and nude, in that order. Remember, nude works best under white clothing.

Hassel is pleased that manufacturers take into account the needs of breast cancer survivors who haven't had reconstruction. "They offer pretty stretch lace and a little padding with some curvature."

The yoga bra is another trend. It's built for stretching, with spandex all around, so there is no constricting factor.

Sports bras, built for impact, now thankfully offer more support and an increased ability to pull moisture away from the body.

As for the trend to wear see-through straps, Hassel doesn't approve: "You either show it or you don't. You accentuate it or you don't. Clear plastic straps don't serve the purpose because they will show anyway."

Shopping tips

• Look through your lingerie drawer and find your favorite bra. Either bring it with you or check the model and size numbers.
• If you need a bra for a special garment, be sure to bring in the garment so you can try the bra with it.
• When trying on a bra, bend over and tuck yourself into it.
• Think about your preferred features: Underwire or soft cup? Cotton or microfiber? Minimizer or maximizer? Lace or embroidery? Push-up or plunge front?
• Be willing to try a different size if the fitter recommends it.
• In an underwire bra, the wire should clear and cup the breast, not squash it.