Go wild with North Shore's inshore activities

By Chris Oliver
Advertiser Staff Writer

While parts of O'ahu baked in September's scorching heat, geocachers escaping to Pupukea's Kaunala Trail, along the cool ridge of the Ko'olau mountains, were having their own problems.

High banks of ferns, massive trees wrapped in giant philodendron leaves, and a 1,000-foot elevation made for a comfortable hike. But the shady canopy allowed only intermittent GPS satellite readings. (Geocaching is an Internet-driven hiking craze involving hunts for hidden items.) The cache, hidden near a spectacular lookout across Pupukea Forest Reserve, remained elusive. As O'ahu's North Shore readies for high-surf season, placing some water pursuits such as deep-sea diving off-limits until spring and summer, there's plenty happening on land: hikes like the one the geocachers were enjoying, but also bird-watching, cycling, camping, golf, motocross, and visits to the renamed Waimea Valley Audubon Center (formerly Waimea Falls Adventure Park), one of the most beautiful nature walks on the island.

Hike that trail

"The North Shore is underutilized and underrepresented" as a place to get close to nature, said Willis Moore of the Hawaii Geographic Society, who is also an adjunct professor at Chaminade University. "For hikers, there is much to be seen, especially above Waimea Valley," where Pu'u o Mahuka Heiau State Monument, the island's largest heiau, stands, he said.

The North Shore is crisscrossed with trails through steep valleys, up switchbacks and along back roads that hug the sides of mountains before opening onto beautiful vistas.

Such is the Kaunala Trail, a 2 1/2-mile loop within the Pupukea Forest Preserve. The trail graced by soaring ironwoods, guava trees, thousands of ferns and bamboo orchids opens eventually to a lookout across a lush green landscape with birdsong the only accompaniment.

Getting there: The Kaunala Trail crosses military land and is open only on weekends, and state and federal holidays. Access is at the end of Pupukea Road; park at the Boy Scout camp. The trail is marked with signposts about a half-mile along the dirt road after the gate. For more information, consult "The Hiker's Guide to O'ahu" by Stuart Ball (UH Press, $18.95), which includes six North Shore hiking trails with descriptions, difficulty ratings and directions to the trail head.

Geocache information is at www.geocaching.com.

Waimea Valley Audubon Center

Huge monkeypod trees, banyans, java plums and liliko'i vines line the paths to Waimea Falls in keeping with the National Audubon Society mission of paving the way to education, conservation and preservation of nature at the one-time adventure theme park.

"Diversity and accessibility (to plants) are what we have here," said David Orr, collections manager at the center. "We want visitors to walk away having learned something about them."

The center, still in transition after changing ownership in July, is open daily to visitors. But the broader vision is of creating a center for cultural learning, one where visitors will glimpse pre-contact history in gardens of native vegetation, alongside agricultural terraces and preserved living sites that create a backdrop of ancient Hawai'i and tell its story of evolution.

"Our aim is to become a leader in native flora collections as well as provide backup for other botanical gardens on the island," said Orr, whose goal is to establish a Hawai'i Association of Botanical Gardens. "Right now, our nursery is bursting with plants."

The center is still in the process of counting its wildlife: "We know a lot about the plants in Waimea Valley, but the last three months have been a process of discovery as far as wildlife is concerned," said Diana King, acting center director. King said the area is an alternative to the Neighbor Islands for wildlife enthusiasts: "Waimea is not remote or difficult to get to, and we have a breeding population of the endangered Hawaiian moorhen right here in the valley."

• Getting there: Waimea Valley Audubon Center is hosting a ho'olaulea, 9.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Oct. 25, with demonstrations, storytelling, hula and Hawaiian games. Admission is $8, $5 for ages 4 to 12 (kama'aina rates: $5, $3 for ages 4 to 12). Information: 638-9199.
• Tours: On Sundays and Thursdays at 2 p.m. Volunteer docents available to serve as interpretive guides on an informal basis. Admission: $8, $5 for ages 4 to 12 (kama'aina: $5, $3 for ages 4 to 12). Tip: Parking at the center is available for visitors to nearby Waimea Bay Beach Park, $3.

James Campbell Wildlife Refuge

Another place to spot Hawai'i's birdlife is the James Campbell Wildlife Refuge on the Kahuku shoreline. During the winter months, the endangered Hawaiian stilt, coot, moorhen and duck, as well as an assortment of winter migratory birds, such as the rare bristle-sided curlew, come to nest.

Beginning Oct. 18, the refuge will offer twice-weekly, 1 1/2-hour tours. "Visitors will see a functioning wetland on a (flat) walk to a kiosk where binoculars and scopes are set up," said wildlife manager Nancy Hoffman. "We blend in with the birds as they function in their natural habitat."

The refuge, on 164 acres leased from the James Campbell Estate, was established in 1976.

Best thing? "The peacefulness, an ecosystem that works, and to see the birds 'at home,' " said Hoffman. "Albatross fly overhead. Historically, they used to nest at the dunes, but now their main area is Ka'ena Point."

• Getting there: The James Campbell Wildlife Refuge is makai of Kamehameha Highway in Kahuku. Tours: First two Saturdays of the month are at 9 a.m., second two Saturdays at 3:30 p.m.; Thursday tours are at 4 p.m. Information and directions: 637-6330, pacificislands.fws.gov/wnwr/ojamesnwr.html. Tours are free.

Cycling

Ka'ena Point is not only a great place to hike and spot albatross, but also one of the best basic mountain biking trails. Invest a day in the 10-mile roundtrip ride that takes you around O'ahu's westernmost tip. Windy and wild, the trail is flat and beginner-easy but remote enough to entice riders of all levels. It is a 2 1/2-mile ride to the point, 5 miles to the end of the trail on the Wai'anae side.

• Getting there: Take Farrington Highway past Mokulei'a and Dillingham Airfield to the end of the road and the trail head. Don't forget the bicycle pump and patch kit; the trail can be rocky. For roadside cycling and great ocean views, try the Pupukea Bicycle Path makai of Kamehameha Highway, stretching 3 1/2 miles from Waimea Bay to Sunset Beach.

Motocross

Thrill-seekers flock each weekend to Kahuku Motocross Track, where more than 400 acres of trails lure bikers to beginner and intermediate trails with obstacles and 3- to 4-minute laps (the Peewee track is for 50-60 cc bikes). Track is open weekends and federal holidays. $5 per bike for nonmembers, $2 for members. Spectators are free. Racing is one Sunday a month, $25 for first class, $20 for each additional class. Gate fees are $3 for spectators and members with bikes, and $5 for nonmembers with bikes. Information: www.hometownmotocross.com. Click track locator.

• Getting there: Kahuku Motocross Track is one mile east of Sunset Beach, mauka side of Kamehameha Highway.