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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, October 19, 2003

Mosey around Upcountry Maui

 •  See how the other half lives on the Big Island
 •  Kaua'i treats nature buffs to its landscape playground

By Christie Wilson
Advertiser Neighbor Islands Editor

Find a welcome escape from the heat and traffic of Maui's resort and commercial areas by heading up to the quaint country towns, forests and farmlands that spread across the midslopes of Haleakala. Spring is the best time to visit the Upcountry region, when the jacaranda and silk oak trees are in glorious bloom.

The jacaranda trees in Makawao are in bloom during the spring. Quaint country towns, farmlands and forests are sprawled across Maui's Upcountry region, on the midslopes of Haleakala.

Advertiser library photo

• Day 1: Drive the Kula "loop" containing portions of Highways 37 and 377, stopping at any one of the area's botanical gardens and historic Holy Ghost Church, also known as the "Wedding Cake Church" because of its distinctive octagonal design. Then head south on Highway 37 toward 'Ulupalakua, where you can enjoy a picnic lunch at the Tedeschi Vineyard tasting room, in a historic cottage once used by King David Kalakaua. If you're up to it, continue east onto bumpy Pi'ilani Highway another 45 minutes or so to remote Kaupo and Huialoha Church, on an ocean outcropping along the rugged coastline.

• Day 2: Most people do the sunrise thing at Haleakala, but why fight the crowds? Sunset is just as beautiful atop the 10,000-foot-tall dormant volcano. But first, explore the former cowboy town of Makawao, now given over to funky shops, art galleries and New Age boutiques. After lunch, pack a Thermos, coats and blankets for the hourlong drive up to Haleakala National Park. Stretch your legs on a half-mile nature trail at Hosmer Grove, or if you're more ambitious, park at the Halemau'u Trailhead and hike down to the rim, a two-mile round trip, where you can gaze into the crater and Ko'olau Gap. After snuggling for sunset at the summit, head to lower elevations for dinner.

• Day 3: Start the day at Grandma's Coffee House in Keokea and take in more of Upcountry's agricultural bounty by enjoying tea and scones at the Naneo a 'O Kula lavender farm, (808) 283-1479, and sampling cheese at the Surfing Goat Dairy, but call first, (808) 878-2870. Or play a round of golf at the Pukalani Country Club (808) 572-1314.

Where to stay

• Star Lookout, Keokea, charming bungalow with kitchen and expansive view; $150. For reservations and information, see www.starlookout.com or e-mail jtower@alaska.com.

• Moonlight Garden B&B, Keokea; two cottages with kitchens on a working farm; $115-$125; (808) 878-6977 or e-mail mauimoon@maui.net.

• Kula Lodge, Highway 377; rustic chalets, some with fireplaces, $95-$150 (kama'aina); (808) 878-1535 or visit www.kulalodge.com.