Journey off the beaten path in style with Clipper Odyssey

By Chris Oliver
Advertiser Travel Writer

In the midst of O'ahu's transit woes, it was easy to miss the sleek 340-foot luxury yacht that berthed quietly at Pier 10 next to Aloha Tower Marketplace two weeks ago.

Adventure cruising is a hot ticket in the cruise business. Clipper Cruise Line, a subsidiary of Intrav, a company that specializes in private jet and luxury yacht travel worldwide, offers passage to exotic destinations — Galap‡gos Islands, Yangtze River, Sea of Cortez, the Amazon, South Pacific and the Mediterranean, to name a few. What makes these cruises different are the onboard lectures by experts and small-group landing trips on Zodiac inflatable craft to places otherwise inaccessible to medium-sized and big ships.

Many destinations, such as Alaska, are best explored by small landing craft: They can get close to glaciers and into fjords to give fabulous views of basking seals, whales, sea otters and bears. Clipper's emphasis on giving passengers an out-of-the-ordinary experience adds a garnish of adventure irresistible to people who love the idea of a vacation at sea but hate the idea of a soulless, shopping-mall experience, which often passes for cruising these days.

Best of all, traveling by ship means you can take the comforts of home — good food and hot baths — along with you as you go exploring.

Experts from everywhere

Exploration is the key word. On each voyage, the Odyssey takes along naturalists, scientists and historians, depending on the destination, to lead small-group expeditions and host pre-dinner talks.

Clipper's December cruise to New Zealand in conjunction with National Geographic Expeditions will have Peter Hillary, son of Everest hero Sir Edmund Hillary. Hillary will talk about his Everest ascent and his treks to the North and South poles.

James Lewis, a Honolulu real estate agent and retired dive instructor, said coming aboard the Clipper changed his attitude on cruising.

"We've spent time on 'live-aboards' and, quite honestly, cruising has never excited me," he said, "but this idea of adventure cruising is very appealing. This is a much more intimate vessel (than the big cruise liners), and even in the dining room it was easy to see you would get to know fellow passengers."

Lewis, 49, said he especially liked the idea of the Zodiac inflatable craft that could take you to places bigger boats could not reach.

"Also (the cruise) attracts a younger, more active and inquisitive passenger who will get more involved in what is going on," Lewis said. "It's a fabulous opportunity."

Learning aboard was the hook for Dot and George Mason of Honolulu, who have taken Clipper cruises to Japan and into the Sea of Okhotsk, where they were aboard the first foreign vessel to sail the Russian waterway since perestroika.

"Both trips were wonderful and we loved being educated!" said Dot Mason, who summed up the Clipper as "the opportunity to go to primitive places in great comfort."

The Masons traveled with a group of enthusiastic birdwatchers and saw rare birds, as well as sea lions, otters and whales.

"If conditions for launching the Zodiacs were unfavorable, there was always something equally interesting going on," Mason said, adding the 'Clipper Chippers' (the ship's famous chocolate chip cookies that appeared at 3 p.m. daily) left just as strong an impression as the wildlife.

You get what you pay for

Nothing about this kind of cruising comes cheaply, of course. Most of Clipper's small-ship adventure cruises begin at more than $2,000 per person, and sightseeing often costs extra.

The lifestyle on board, however, is extremely comfortable, informal and unregimented. Deck walkways are wide and cabins are roomy with a seating area, fridge, TV and private bathroom. Deluxe cabins and suites have a private lanai. The ship has an exercise room, pool and jacuzzi and a library. Passengers are free to join in as much or as little as they choose. Free snorkeling gear is available.

Mary Lou Lewis, owner of HNL Travel Associates and a passenger on Clipper cruises in the Amazon and Japan, said she recommends Clipper Cruise Line to clients, novice and experienced cruisers, who are looking for something more adventurous and off-the-beaten-path locations.

"The company does a good job.

I like the size of the ship and the informality," Lewis said. "The lectures and small group landings to view wildlife are really great."

Lewis recalled one memorable night trip by Zodiac to view crocodiles while journeying up the Amazon.

"If you want casinos and dancing, don't come on these cruises," she said.