While designers have flirted with miniskirts for several seasons, we're predicting this is the year they'll make their break from runway to real world.

Abby Christi, who teaches Fashion Forecasting at the University of Hawai'i-Manoa, said the hottest minis today are made of heavier, textured menswear fabrics such as tweeds and corduroy. She added that the look is feminine, flared and flounced rather than tight and tarty.

"The mini looks fresh to everyone again," said Lucy Chelini, merchandise manager for Neiman Marcus Ala Moana.

In a nod to the mod '60s, perhaps interpreted most eloquently by Marc Jacobs, miniskirts are being paired with go-go boots. Over-the-calf boots are also being shown, though they're a bit warm for our summer-like fall weather.

At Chanel, they're showing leather leggings under flirty skirts.

A new twist: layering the legs, with fishnets over bright opaque hose in unexpected colors such as lavender and fuchsia.

Another fashion forward way with a mini, Chelini said, is the schoolgirl look: a pleated mini in gray wool or corduroy, paired with a sweater (Prada adds an argyle vest) and loafers.

Fear not, Chelini said, bare legs are still OK with miniskirts in our island climate, but even a pair of beige fishnets can bring the look into fall 2003 — and the puka breathe, so they don't add a layer of warmth.

But wait! Before you plunk down your hard-earned cash for that mini, learn more about how to make the trend work for you.

It's all about proportion

When combining tops with minis, think of the body as a shape that needs to be divided visually into pleasing proportions through clever use of clothing. There are mathematical proportions that work — or don't: A 50/50 division of top and bottom is the least flattering, so avoid "cutting" your body in half by dressing it in two pieces of equal length. Try to achieve a Golden Mean proportion: a 2:3 or 3:5 ratio of bottom to top or top to bottom.

When trying on a miniskirt, consider functional lines that divide the figure, such as skirt and top hemlines, as well as sleeve lengths. These lines divide the body and attract the eye, so be sure they are placed ideally for your figure.

If the focus is on the legs, the top should provide balance. A halter or tube top will not work. A pared-down but covered-up top is a better choice, according to Chelini. The long-sleeved T-shirt, blazer, bomber or motorcycle jacket will provide the proper proportion for a mini.

If you want to add length to your look, try a jacket or top with an asymmetrical zipper or embellishment. A turtleneck also helps, if you have a long enough neck to carry it off. In fact, Lavina Wong, director of special events for Macy's, said "the ribbed turtleneck is the must-have top this season."

For the vertically challenged

"The key to feeling OK about wearing a mini is that it's all about your legs," said international image consultant Dean Christopher, who resides in Manoa when he's not working in Paris, Milan or New York. "If you're blessed with long, gazelle-like legs, then it's great. But most people aren't, especially in Hawai'i."

Orpha Herrick, retired fashion professor at UH-Manoa, said every woman can identify three skirt lengths that will look best on her. How? Stand in front of a mirror and find three places where your leg curves in. Most women will find one near the ankle, one near the knee and the highest at a point on the thigh. These three points, she said, are the best places to place your hem.

If you're short of leg but not faint of heart and want to wear a mini regardless, here are some helpful hints on making the most with what you've got:

• Create a single unbroken line by having your hose match your shoes: brown hose, brown shoes or black hose, black shoes. "Don't chop up the line," advised Chelini.

• If you want to wear boots, avoid calf-length (they divide the leg) and go for the over-the-knee style.

• Watch out for a too-mini mini. Extremely short lengths can draw attention to the hips while making legs look chunkier, Chelini warned.

• High heels or flat flats look best on petite people.

• Try a long top over a mini to lengthen the look.

• Bare arms or short sleeves create divisions in the overall look as well. A long sleeve with a deep cuff or a tapered wrist will elongate the look of the top portion.

If you're dying to wear a mini but your legs simply are not in shape to be shown off, consider this Parisian style: wear a miniskirt over a pair of tight, tapered jeans.

Mini manners