Japanese-style bar Nonbei serves a tasty menu

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

Nonbei's offerings are served with artistic flair. Among the menu selections are, clockwise from top, beef croquettes, Nonbei steak, matsutake soup (served in a kettle-shaped dish), sashimi moriwase and deep-fried flounder. Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser Izakaya Nonbei 3108 'Olu St. 734-5573 Dinner: 5 p.m.-midnight Mondays-Saturdays 1/2 Good

In Japan there are many harshly lit chain izakayas in business districts and near railway stations, where salaried workers gather to leave the day's stresses behind. A higher-end izakaya such as Nonbei is more a gastro-pub, where the food takes, or at least shares, center stage. What links them all is an eclectic menu of foods that go well with sake or beer.

The word "nonbei," loosely translated, means "happy drinking place," according to a most delightful and helpful staffer, Nicole, who shared that nugget with me. Although many patrons were enjoying sake and beer with their food, it was civilized quaffing, polite and quiet.

The menu is difficult for monolinguists such as myself; so if you do not read Japanese, feel free to ask for translations. The food here is presented with a delicate and artistic eye, especially if you delight in contrasting styles of color, aroma, taste, and plate architecture.

The korokke (potato and meat croquette, $5.95) was a creamy, crunchy and subtle appetizer. Tori karaage ($4.95) were nuggets of fried chicken. Moro-q ($4) are long slices of cucumber with miso paste, a crunchy and refreshing treat.

Two eggplant dishes to sample are the nasu dengaku ($5.75), which is broiled miso style; and nasu no kinoko itame ($4.95) that is matched with mushrooms.

Nonbei has a strong focus on fish, as many Japanese restaurants do. You can enjoy sashimi of all kinds here, but not sushi, although you can order side rice items such as yaki musubi (round, grilled rice patties flavored with miso or shoyu) for $2.50 each.

The large sashimi platter, sashimi moriwase ($30, chef's assortment), changes depending on what's fresh. There was hamachi, maguro, hirame, ika and tai (sea bream) on the platter I saw being devoured by the couple next to me.

Gindara misoyaki (butterfish, $9.95) was soft, sweet and rich, grilled to perfection. Hamachi kama (the collar area of the fish, $11.50) is considered a delicacy for its richness, texture and flavor, especially when grilled. The grilled unagi (eel, $6.50) has an incredible mouth feel, meltingly soft and unctuous, and is finished with the familiar sweet glaze.

One of the most popular fish dishes is the karei karaage (whole flounder, $8.95), which utilizes every part of the fish, including the head, body, skin and bones, which are crisply fried and serve as a vessel to carry the boneless fillets of the fish. After you enjoy the meat, the rest of the fish is entirely edible, too. Drizzle it with ponzu sauce, dose it with a couple shakes of Japanese hot pepper, and you're off to the races.

Fresh baby clams in garlic butter ($8.95) are a tender, sea-sweet dish.

The Nonbei special steak ($14.45) is a meaty treat served on a sizzling platter. It is carved up into bite-sized chunks and dusted with a very light coating that seals in the juices while seasoning the steak.

If you feel like noodle dishes, there are soba offerings, along with my favorite Japanese noodle, udon (choices range between $4.75 and $6.75).

When it comes time for dessert, definitely try the oshiruko ($4.95), which are hot mochi balls in a red azuki bean sauce. This is a sweet dish that's so much fun in the mouth — hot, chewy, sweet, soupy, rich. Green tea ice cream ($3.25) is also quite good.

Izakaya Nonbei serves a bit of everything in a very homey and warm atmosphere; they offer a good way to get acquainted with Japanese food while satisfying conflicting palates. You'll be enjoying your dinner bellied up to a bar, so it's a friendly and social style of dining. Nonbei is not only a "happy drinking place" — it's also a happy eating place.

Send your comments and suggestions to Matthew Gray mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.