Circling O'ahu
• Places to go, sights to see — how about those roadside shrimp trucks?
By Elizabeth House
Advertiser Staff Writer
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| From top: View of Diamond head and Waikiki; Wahiawa pineapple fields; Kua Aina Sandwich Shop, Hale'iwa, Hanauma Bay, Giovanni's shrimp truck, the Kukaniloko Birthing Stones near Wahiawa.
Advertiser library photos Cost breakdown for our trip: For five adults, one child. Rental van: $130 for three days. Beach house: $300 for two nights for a three-bedroom, two bath house on the beach. The house has a full kitchen, washer/dryer, lanai, air conditioning and cable television. Meals out: $75 total for two meals for five adults. Total cost: $505, split among five adults. (Note: If we had stayed only one night at the beach house, the total cost would have been $310, split among five adults.) |
One such trip wasn't to show visitors the wonders of O'ahu, however. David and Barrie Roland, and their 21-month old daughter, Sophia, were my neighbors in Makiki before returning to the Mainland recently. Before they left, we took a journey around the island. They had been in Hawai'i for more than six months then, but, being bus-bound, until we took our excursion they had not ventured outside Honolulu, unless you count Costco in Iwilei.
Another couple from the condo complex came with us. Like me, they are seasoned O'ahu tour guides. The six of us took off on a Sunday morning in a rental minivan. The plan: An overnight tour that would start early Sunday morning just south of Waikiki, circle around the south and Windward shores, stop for the night on the North Shore, and them come back to Honolulu Monday afternoon or early evening.
We had all arranged our schedules to be off work Sunday and Monday. We didn't have to worry about getting through airport security or the ever-rising expense of going to a Neighbor Island. The costs, divided among five adults, came to just a few pennies over $100 per person.
We had a few definite stopping places planned, but beyond that, this was to be a trip of stopping when we wanted, where we wanted, for as long as we wanted — within reason, of course, since we did have to register at the rental house by 4 p.m.
First up was a quick drive in and out of Diamond Head Crater. As we went in, I told David and Barrie about hiking up the crater, and all the gorgeous houses and estates you can see from the summit. We didn't have time for the hike this time, plus Sophia, a toddler, was still a bit young for that adventure!
From there, we headed to Hanauma Bay, pointing out various places and points of interest along the way: the Kahala Mandarin Oriental hotel, Black Point, the house where MTV's "Real World" was filmed, Hawai'i Kai, Portlock, Koko Crater.
When we arrived at Hanauma Bay, I was impressed with the changes to the place. I had been to Hanauma Bay several times, but this was my first trip there there since the renovations to the park. The first time I went in 1994, my sister and another friend went snorkeling, taking the long walk down from the parking lot (riding the trolley back up). There was a small snack bar at the beach itself, but nothing on the parking level except a rest room area and some picnic tables.
Today, Hanauma Bay has improved parking, plus better handicapped access for those who just want to look down on the bay itself. But even better, after paying a small fee to enter the park itself (those with military or state ID get in free), visitors can view educational exhibits on their way to the snorkeling area below. It's well worth the time (and the fee, if you're not local) to explore the top level of Hanauma Bay.
A five-minute watch at the Halona Blow Hole repaid us with one fantastic blast from the sea cave, and then it was on to Waimanalo Beach Park.
This was a planned stop. Barrie had been looking for a beach spot where she could allow Sophia to wander around without a diaper; without any clothing, in fact, except a little blue hat. Sophia was quite happy with her new-found freedom, and her excitement was contagious. Soon we all were laughing at her antics as she screamed with delight when the water swirled around her feet.
After an hour or so at WaimŒnalo, we showered, dried off, and continued on our way. Sophia was still excited, but she was also tired. She fell asleep quickly after we got back on the road.
The colors of the water were a constant amazement for Barrie, who grew up in Charleston, S.C. She was accustomed to the ocean, but the Atlantic Ocean doesn't have the beautiful blue and green hues of the waters around Hawai'i.
We passed through Kailua, Kane'ohe, Ka'a'awa and La'ie before we came to our next stop: lunch at Giovanni's shrimp truck. It was nearly 2 p.m. and we were hungry. But the scampi and lemon/butter shrimp plates (with the obligatory two scoops rice) at Giovanni's did the trick. Sophia woke up and joined us for lunch, and although she didn't care for the garlic shrimp, she did eat some rice and a couple of crackers that Mom provided.
Back on the road, we traveled past Sunset Beach and the Pipeline, stopping to watch the surfers. The waves weren't bad, with some sets reaching as high as 10 feet.
We made one more brief pit stop in Hale'iwa before heading to the beach house at Camp Mokule'ia, where we had rented a house with the perfection accommodations: three bedrooms, two with double beds and one with a twin bed, plus a portable crib for Sophia.
There was plenty of daylight left, but unfortunately, not much sunlight. The rain started about 15 minutes after we settled in the house, and showers were frequent throughout the rest of the day and most of the night.
Dinner was from our cooler: spaghetti, salad and garlic bread. We had brought everything — except garlic for the bread. But everyone was fine without it; we'd all had our fill of garlic at lunchtime.
Originally, we had planned to leave by 1 p.m. Monday, taking a tour through Wahiawa, the pineapple fields and Pearl Harbor before coming back to Honolulu. But in the morning, we decided to stay another night, if the house was available. Fortunately, it was. I called and extended the minivan rental for another day, and we were set.
We spent most of the morning on the beach. Sophia splashed around in a small cove, while I watched for sea turtles. I have been to Camp Mokule'ia more than a dozen times, and every time, I have seen at least two or three turtles. I wasn't disappointed on this trip, either. By noon we spotted at least four.
We walked back to the house, then drove into Hale'iwa for lunch at Kua Aina Sandwich Shop. On the way, Sophia fell asleep. So rather than wake her up and take her inside a crowded restaurant, we got our burgers to go, went to Hale'iwa Beach Park and picnicked there.
That evening was pretty laid back, as we sat out on the lanai and talked about what a great trip it had been. We knew we had to rise early and get back to Honolulu for our respective jobs.
We made only two stops on the way home: at the Kukaniloko Birthing Stones near Wahiawa, and later, near the airport, to change Sophia's diaper. We arrived home Tuesday morning tired, yet relaxed and ready to face the "real" world again.
This was an inexpensive way to take a break from our everyday lives. With the exception of two meals at specific places, we catered the entire event out of our refrigerators. Yes, we had to rent the minivan and the beach house, but both were good deals (see box). We didn't make it to some of our planned stops — the Pu'u O Mahuka Heiau State Monument on the North Shore, Waimea Falls Park, Dole Plantation — and we didn't stop at many beaches on our tour.
But for two days, we enjoyed the sights, sounds and beauty of O'ahu. How great is that?
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Places to go, sights to see — how about those roadside shrimp trucks?
If you make the trip around O'ahu, here are some places you might want to check out. This is hardly a comprehensive list of things to do and see on O'ahu, just some of the places I have enjoyed in the past 10 years:
Places to go/see:
Diamond Head Crater, $1 per person fee to hike to the summit. The trail is 1-1/2 miles long, and takes about 90 minutes at a nice, slow pace. Wear good hiking or tennis shoes, bring water and a flashlight. Start your hike in the morning; there is no shade along the path.
Hanuama Bay Nature Preserve, 7455 Kalaniana'ole Highway. Hanauma Bay is open from 6 a.m to 6 p.m. daily except Tuesdays. On Saturdays, the preserve is open from 6 a.m. until 10 p.m., weather permitting. There is a $5 entrance fee to the park if you are not a resident; residents and military people get in free with a valid ID. Parking is $1 per vehicle. Information: 396-4229, www.aloha.com/~lifeguards/hanau ma.html.
Halona Blow Hole, Kalaniana'ole Highway between Hanauma Bay and Sandy Beach. It's worth the wait to see the vent throw water and mist into the air. It's also a great place to watch whales from late November through early March. Free.
Sandy Beach, 8800 Kalaniana'ole Highway. A popular spot but one of Hawai'i's most dangerous beaches because its steep waves dump on sand. The open area between the highway and the beach is a great venue for flying kites. Free.
Waimanalo Beach Park, 41-741 Kalaniana'ole Highway. Great bodyboarding area. Some shade. Restrooms and showers right next to parking lot. Free.
Sea Life Park, 41-202 Kalaniana'ole Highway. Theme park attraction that features dolphins, sea lions, sea turtles and other marine life. Open from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Admission for nonresidents is $26 general (13 and older), $13 for kids 4-12; Kama'aina rates are $13 general, $6.50 kids. Children 3 and younger are free. (866) 365-7446, www.sealifeparkhawaii.com.
Manana Island, or Rabbit Island, just north of Makapu'u Point. Named Rabbit Island because a rabbit colony lived there for nearly 100 years. Today, the island is a seabird sanctuary.
Valley of the Temples, 47-200 Kahekili Highway. A Christian church and a Buddhist temple on the grounds honor the followers of both religions who are buried in this unique, beautiful cemetery. Byodo-In, the Buddhist temple, is a perfect replica of the 900-year-old temple in Uji, Japan, which is built around an enormous statue of the Buddha. The sound of the temple's 3-ton brass bell echoes over the koi-filled pools and tranquil groves of the grounds, which are home to a number of peacocks. Open daily 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Admission: $2 per vehicle.
Senator Fong's Plantation, 47-295 Pulama Road, Kane'ohe. Has narrated tram tours through five scenic valleys and plateaus with palms, fruit and nut trees, ferns and fragrant flowers. Admission: Nonresident adults $10, children (5-12) $6. Kama'aina adults $7, children $4.50; five tours a day, 10:30 to 3 p.m. 239-6775.
Polynesian Cultural Center, 55-370 Kamehameha Highway. Run by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, this attraction shows the lifestyle and customs of seven Polynesian cultures: Samoa, Hawai'i, Tahiti, Fiji, Tonga, New Zealand, and the Marquesas. Each island culture has a village compound through which you can walk, learn and observe demonstrations of an ancient way of life. There are many different types of admission packages. Call for details. 293-3333.
Kualoa Ranch, a 4,000-acre working ranch in Ka'a'awa, tries to preserve the area's history by offering environment-friendly activities and produce at the farm store. Activity packages are full-day, half-day, or individual. 237-7321.
Chinaman's Hat, an islet also known by its Hawaiian name Mokoli'i, is easily seen from Kualoa Regional Park, 49-479 Kamehameha Highway.
Sunset Beach and the Pipeline, where big waves roar in winter.
Pu'u O Mahuka Heiau State Monument. Take Pupukea road at Foodland and follow the signs. O'ahu's largest heiau is above Waimea Bay Beach, and if you walk the path surrounding the heiau (do not walk across the sacred land), you'll be rewarded with a spectacular view of Waimea Beach.
Waimea Valley Audubon Center. 59-864 Kamehameha Highway. Admission: $8, $5 kids and seniors. Kama'aina rates are $5, $3 kids and seniors. Keiki 3 and younger get in free. Open daily 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. 638-9199.
Places to stay:
Camping at beach parks: Camping overnight is allowed at many beach parks across the island. Some camping areas are regulated by the state; some by the City and County of Honolulu. Both city and state campgrounds are open Fridays through Wednesdays; camping is not allowed on Wednesday and Thursday nights. You must be 18 or older to apply for a camp permit.
For the state parks, permit applications may be made in writing, by phone, or in person, and are accepted no earlier than 30 days before the first day of camping. Permits, which are $5 per campsite per night, can be obtained at any district office of the Division of State Parks. Applications can be made online at www.state.hi.us/dlnr/dsp/fees.html (click on Application for State Parks Permit).
For the city and county, applications must be made in person no earlier than two Fridays before the first camp date. Permits are free and limited to one permit, which allows a maximum of 10 persons, including children, and two family-sized tents, to be erected. Permits may be obtained at the Department of Parks and Recreation in the Honolulu Municipal Building, 650 South King Street, or at any Satellite City Hall.
Rental houses abound along the Windward shore. Check the classified sections of The Advertiser, or try www.beachhousehawaii.com, www.hawaii.com/visit/accommodations/rentalhomes or www.oahu-hawaii-vacation.com.
Hotels/motels: Turtle Bay Resort is the only hotel on the North Shore. It's pricey, but still less expensive than some Waikiki hotels, and the beaches are not nearly as crowded. And Turtle Bay has other on-site amenities you won't find at most hotels in Waikiki, including golfing and tennis. Call 293-8811, and be sure to ask about kama'aina rates.
Hostels: There are at least four hostels on the North Shore. Call for rates and information.
Backpackers Vacation Inn and Plantation Village. 59-788 Kamehameha Highway, Hale'iwa, HI 96712. 638-7838, www.backpackers-hawaii.com.
Countryside Cabins. 53-224 Kamehameha Highway, Hau'ula, HI 96717. 237-1203, www.hawaiicabins.com.
Sharks Cove Rentals. 59-672 Kamehameha Highway, Hale'iwa, HI 96712. 779-8535, www.sharkscoverentals.com.
Surfhouse Hawaii. 62-203 Lokoea Place, Hale'iwa, HI 96712. 637-7146, www.surfhouse.com.
Church-sponsored camps. Camp Erdman and Camp Mokule'ia are private camp areas on Farrington Road near Mokule'ia. Both have tent areas, lodges and/or cabins available for rent. Camp Erdman, 637-4615, is a YMCA camp. Camp Mokule'ia, 637-6241, is run by the Episcopal Church. Both camps are usually full during the summer, but it's always worth a telephone call to see if they've had a cancellation.
Favorite places to eat:
Lucy's Grill 'N Bar, 33 Aulike St., is a Kailua dinner favorite, with great Hawai'i Regional Cuisine-type food, a friendly patio for drinks and pupu.
Cinnamon's, 315 Uluniu, Kailua, recently received the most votes in an informal poll of Advertiser readers' breakfast favorites. They raved about the food, and service and breakfast is served until 2 p.m.
Pah Ke's Chinese Restaurant, 46-018 Kamehameha Highway, Kane'ohe, near Windward Mall offers excellent, reasonably priced traditional Chinese food but also lighter specialty dishes (such as cold fruit soups on hot days) and wonderful East-West desserts. Call ahead to arrange a special menu for your party.
Koa Pancake House, 46-126 Kahuhipa, Kane'ohe, is a favorite breakfast spot on the Windward side, known for high stacks and housemade fresh orange pancake syrup. It's the only place we know of to serve vinha d'ahlos (Portuguese pickled pork) — so 'ono with eggs.
Shrimp trucks. For less than $12 you get a big plate of huge shrimp, cooked one of three ways, plus rice, at Giovanni's Shrimp Trucks in Kahuku and Hale'iwa. You'll note others along the route, each with their own specialties. Romy's, the shrimp shack at the shrimp farm on Kamehameha Highway, sells live shrimp, too, to take back to your vacation rental and cook.
Punalu'u Restaurant, 53-146 Kamehameha Highway, the closest thing on O'ahu to a roadhouse, is a funky spot known for seafood specialties, local-style plates and drinks.
Foodland at Pupukea, 59-720 Kamehameha Highway, is an experience, home to lots of high-quality take-out and convenience foods, good breads, a nice wine selection, everything you need for picnics and beach barbecues. There's a Starbucks, too, if you're in withdrawal for a latté by the time you get that far.
Kua Aina Sandwich Shop's in Hale'iwa, 66-160 Kamehameha Highway, has baskets of excellent fries and big burgers — eat in or take out.
