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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, March 28, 2004

Disneyland still a magic kingdom, happily ever after

By Katherine Nichols
Associated Press

ANAHEIM, Calif. — The Disney empire has struggled recently with criticism of CEO Michael Eisner, an unsolicited takeover bid, sour ratings at ABC and complaints that the theme parks are falling into disrepair. But none of that matters to my children or to me when we step into the Magic Kingdom. All reality is suspended during those few days we visit Anaheim's Disneyland Resort each summer.

Midway-type rides, one shaped like Mickey Mouse, are part of the California Adventure Park section of Disneyland, in Anaheim, Calif.

Associated Press

As a Disneyland regular for 30 of its 49 years, both as a child and as a parent, I know every detail in the Haunted House, and would be horrified if Disney changed any of it. And how could the charming innocence of It's a Small World possibly improve? Or the iconic Matterhorn, a pedestrian roller coaster by modern standards, and the glittery Electric Light Parade? Disneyland knows what to keep.

When California Adventure Park was completed about three years ago, I stared skeptically at the giant letters and Golden Gate Bridge replica. While the adjacent Disneyland revolves around a fantasy world of stories and characters, California Adventure Park depicts Monterey's Cannery Row, a Hollywood studio back lot and California's old-time seaside amusement parks and beach boardwalks. Too eager to share with my children what I had enjoyed at their age, we spent all of our time in Disneyland, until last summer.

My son finally convinced me to explore the 55-acre addition, where we discovered one of our favorite rides: Soarin' Over California. Exhilarating enough to inspire a firm grip on the seat, Soarin' brings to life the most exciting parts of the Golden State visually and viscerally. A large apparatus lifts you off the ground, tilting and swaying in front of an 80-foot bowl-shaped screen that fills the theater with images of skiing, whitewater rafting, horseback riding, surfing. And when jets fly by, a blast of wind hits you in the face.

The newest feature is a massive attraction called the Twilight Zone Tower of Terror. Slated to open May 5, the supernatural thrill ride is set in an abandoned Hollywood luxury hotel with a 13-story elevator drop (modeled after the most popular attraction at Walt Disney World). Also undergoing a facelift is perennial favorite Space Mountain; that is scheduled for completion in fall 2005.

California Adventure Park boasts a roller coaster that blasts from zero to 55 mph in four seconds. There is plenty for young kids as well, such as Heimlich's Chew Chew Train in A Bug's Land, an area with oversized decor to make guests feel, well, like the size of a bug.

Another highlight in California Adventure Park include "Disney's Aladdin: A Musical Spectacular," a near-Broadway-quality production of the Disney movie in abbreviated form. Five or six impressive sets roll out during the 45-minute show, and actors even appeared over the balcony area on a flying carpet. The comedian playing the blue genie obviously had freedom to ad lib, and spouted amusing references to current events (at the time, it was the gubernatorial recall election in California) to the delight of the adults in the crowd.

There is one classic attraction Disneyland did tamper with and enhance. "Great Moments with Mr. Lincoln" features the former president rumpled and more authentic than ever, delivering the Gettysburg Address. Though my children whined about entering the vacant and refreshingly air-conditioned theater, they couldn't stop talking about it after we left. A 3D sound system delivered through individual headphones combined with tactile effects, such as the feeling of hair falling on your neck when a soldier gets his hair cut before going off to war at Gettysburg, bring the experience to life.

Like most parents, I'm a slave to school vacations. But I don't recommend visiting Disneyland in August unless you have no other choice. Those who work in the park recommend February to avoid heat and long lines. The first two weeks in December are also fairly quiet.

One way to minimize the sting of traveling when everyone else does is with the FastPass system. The vouchers listing a computer-assigned boarding time are distributed at kiosks next to most attractions. They do not cost extra, and dictate a one-hour window when you may return to the ride. While others waited 80 minutes for Indiana Jones, our FastPass line zipped by in about 10 minutes. The caveat: kiosks keep track of vouchers you've obtained, and limit you to one or two attractions at a time.

In my youth, I drove with friends from San Diego and spent the day at Disneyland before returning home the same night, a feat that should not be attempted by anyone over the age of 25. Instead, plan to stay for two or three days. Those on a budget (beware: even money takes on an ethereal, unreal quality inside the park) can investigate Walt Disney Travel Co. vacation packages that include lodging at Disneyland's "good neighbor" motels. But I find it worth the extra money to stay in the resort, where you can walk or take the Monorail back and forth. The difference between enjoyment and exhaustion is that mid-afternoon rest you can get at that nearby hotel.