By Wanda A. Adams
Assistant Features Editor

HILO, Hawai'i — This is the kind of day that Hiloans hate — sunny, clear, the top of Mauna Kea glistening white, the fields above the town glowing green and Hilo bay still and glistening.

I say hate because it's the kind of day that makes you decide you just have to figure out a way to move to Hilo. And from what I hear from my friends, there's entirely too much of that going on.

Today, halau begin to arrive in force and rehearsals, assigned to halau in strictly policed one-hour blocks, which will keep the Edith Kanaka'ole Stadium busy all day. The craft fairs — there are at least four of them — kick off this morning and the daily free noon hula performances at the Naniloa and Hilo Hawaiian hotels continue to allow visitors a sneak preview of competing halau as well as Hilo-based and even Japanese hula schools.

Last night, I joined the Culinary Institute of the Pacific's Randal Nunokawa, an old friend from his days at the Kapi'olani Community College campus and now at the Hilo CC campus, for dinner at the restaurant Hilo foodies are praising and patronizing in numbers, the Hilo Bay Cafe (I misnamed it Cafe Hilo in last night's pre-dinner report, kala mai). I was surprised when Randal headed up the hill to a shopping center rather than into Hilo town where the chic restaurants are that occupy period buildings.

Indeed, Hilo Bay Cafe is anonymously housed behind black glass windows with a view of Walmart and a parking lot. But if that bothers you, just take a seat with your back to the entrance, or one of the booths at the rear, and you'll think you're in a SoHo (or at least SoHa) for the muted cream and black interior, the blown glass light fixtures adding just a touch of color and a muted glow and the minimalist decor. Bizarre glassware adds a touch of humor — highball glasses that slump sideways and off-center martini glasses. Then you'll get a look at the intriguing menu with it's more than reasonable prices ($8 to $20 for generous-sized pupu, salads and entree plates that generally include a protein centerpiece and vegetables; this is a very low-carb-friendly place) and you'll know you're not in old Hilo anymore.

One reason for the less than exciting location is the Hilo Bay Cafe is a owned by the folks who founded Island Naturals, across the parking lot next to Borders Books & Music. It's a health foods/alternative foods deli and wine shop known for its salad bar and healthful takeout.

Hilo Bay Cafe chef Joshua Ketner, formerly of Chicago, Colorado and other points east of here, worked at Island Naturals before owners Kim and Russell Snuggerood noted his enthusiasm for something more challenging and moved him over to the open the restaurant. "We're trying to hit every budget and palate," Kenter said, when he was asked about the menu's broad appeal (from foie gras to roasted tofu — to items not usually found on the same bill of fare).

All of the dishes are available with wines selected by mâitre d' Darrin Sakai. We ordered a number of dishes and shared and I recommend this technique for getting to know a restaurant. Particularly memorable was the avocado and tomato salad with wasabi goat cheese and a mint and (very healthful) flax seed dressing which — alas! — is a house secret or I'd soon be sharing it with Advertiser readers in the Taste section.

A passion fruit beurre blanc over the seared 'ahi appetizer had me making the happy "mmmmm" sound. And we took our waitress' advice and ordered a stuffed chicken breast with a pine nut and bacon drizzle that was exceptionally good; the chicken is roasted off at very high heat and develops a delicious smoky flavor. This was a menu I wanted to explore again and there was little on it I didn't want to try.

So sorry, hula afficionados, I got a little off on a food tangent, didn't I? But one of the stories I'll be bringing back for the print edition is a piece about dining out in Hilo, which has become an increasingly varied treat, so this is all in the name of research.

Last night after dinner I spent an hour poring over the Merrie Monarch Festival program, studying the information about the songs to be performed and noted there there are some themes emerging. Auntie Luana Kawelu had earlier told me they don't pick a theme for the hula competition but particular threads always shine out from the pattern.

This year, I noted a considerable number of songs from my home island of Maui. Pele and Hi'iaka and their complex and troubled relationship are featured, as they always seem to be. A number of the song choices are very personal to the halau — one is even a song written in praise of a Hamakua coast bed-and-breakfast, the Palms Cliff House, for being so hospitable.

Tonight, we'll attend the Ho'ike (hula show) and file a piece for print and I'm looking forward to a day of watching rehearsals and exploring craft fairs while photographer Deborah Booker gets set up to transmit directly from the stadium this evening (she uses a phone line, while I'll file by laptop and cell phone right from my seat).

When you're watching the hula competition later this week, I'll be the one crouched in her seat, balancing a computer on her knees and typing away fiercely.