By Bob Krauss
Advertiser Columnist

VOLCANO, Hawai'i — There's this pizza place — open for almost a year and signless — where people drive from Kona to get take-out orders of lasagna, rack of lamb and portobello mushroom salad for a backyard picnic.

It reminds me of Chez Michel about 50 years ago when Michel Martin was getting his start in Wahiawa.

The chef in this establishment is Mark Kissner, an Australian, who couldn't get a job on the Big Island because he was overqualified, so he decided to find work the American way: "Start your own business."

His wife, Chery Garvey, drives down on weekends with their daughter from Kamuela, where she has a booming medical practice. Fifteen years ago, her practice was interrupted when the doctor to the rich and famous at South Kohala's resorts visited Australia and fell desperately in love.

If this sounds like a Danielle Steele romance novel, don't blame me. I'm just telling you what I learned over a pizza.

The scene of the romance was the five-star Sheraton Mirage at Port Douglas in North Queensland where Kissner reigned as general manager. Chery gave up her medical practice to marry the man she couldn't live without. A week later, she was pregnant.

Fast forward through resorts in Bali, Bahrain and Singapore to the Big Island. They came back because Chery is a local girl who graduated at Punahou. Her former patients welcomed her with open arms, but Mark couldn't find a job.

"I've always wanted to be a restaurateur," he said. "Hotel work is too structured."

Chery tried to discourage him. However, "he loves to cook. I always said no. Then he saw this empty half of a store in Volcano Village and he got so excited, I gave in."

Kissner ordered a wood-burning pizza oven from Italy that weighs a ton and a half. One reason the pizzas taste so good is that he burns only kiawe wood. "That's why we call our place the Kiawe Kitchen, only we haven't had time to put up a sign."

This does not discourage the number of cowboy boots, running shoes, shower sandals and lady slippers under the tables. Kissner said he expected to feed tourists, but has discovered that 30 percent of his clientele is local.

"I don't share Mark's passion for food," Chery confessed. "But I enjoy meeting the interesting people who come in from all over the world. I swore I'd never get back to a relentless schedule. But he's so happy.

"Mark bakes bread every day. He prints a new menu for both lunch and dinner based on what he can buy in the market in the morning. He comes to Kamuela one day a week, and I do the books and payroll."

Reach Bob Krauss at 525-8073.