Dukkah is a toasted seed and spice mixture that adds a flavorful dimension when scattered on steamed or grilled vegetables, fish or chicken or — as it's used in Scholtmeyer's restaurant — as a bread dip (dip a rustic country-style bread in olive oil first, then dukkah). This recipe makes a lot, and the spices aren't cheap; get some friends together to pool expenses and divide up the dukkah. You can make the bread crumbs yourself using old, dry bread or by drying out fresh bread in a 200-degree oven until hard and dry.

There is a quick but dangerous method for toasting seeds and a slower but more reliable method. You can pour them into a dry, nonstick pan and place them over medium-high heat, but then you must watch them carefully and shake the pan often. You'll know they're toasted when they begin to release their fragrance and turn a little brown; sesame seeds and some others also will begin to pop and jump in the pan. A safer method is to roast the seeds in a 300-degree oven, checking frequently — they'll take 15 minutes or so.

Macadamia Dukkah

• 1/4 cup coriander seeds
• 1/4 cup caraway seeds
• 1/4 cup poppy seeds
• 1/4 cup black sesame seeds
• 1/4 cup white sesame seeds
• 1/8 cup fennel seeds
• 1/4 cup fine bread crumbs
• 1/4 cup macadamia nuts, ground to cornmeal texture
• Salt and pepper to taste

Toast all the seeds, the crumbs and the nuts. (It might be best to do the seeds together, the bread crumbs on their own and the nuts on their own). Grind to a powder (in a blender or food processor, or with a mortar and pestle — the large, heavy Thai stone ones that you can find in Chinatown for $20 are really good for this kind of chore). Season with salt and pepper to your taste. Store in airtight container in refrigerator. Use in a timely manner.

Makes about 28 (1 tablespoon) servings.

• Per serving (not including salt to taste): 80 calories, 7 g total fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 20 mg sodium, 5 g carbohydrates, 2.5 g fiber, 0.5 g sugar, 3 g protein.

Don't be intimidated by the length of the following moi recipe. It's three pretty straightforward recipes in one: a warm dal (lentil stew), a cooling yogurt relish and a very simple fried fish. Both the lentil stew and the yogurt raita can be made ahead of time. Reheat the dal very gently and bring the yogurt relish to room temperature while you fry the fish. If filleting a moi is beyond your capabilities, ask the fish shop to do it. Liquefied butter is butter that's been gently melted and the solids skimmed off, also called clarified butter or ghee.

Crispy-skin moi with dal and raita

• 12 small fillets moi, skin on, bones removed
• 1/4 cup chopped cilantro
• Lentil dal (recipe follows)
• Mint raita (recipe follows)

Place a little vegetable or olive oil in a large sauté pan and heat to sizzling. Pan-fry moi, skin side down, until crispy. Once crisp, flip moi and cook another 2-3 minutes.

Divide the warm lentil dal among six plates. (A deep wide soup dish is preferred.)

Place two small moi fillets on top of the dal in each plate and spoon or drizzle a little raita over each.

Garnish with a tablespoon of micro or minced cilantro.

Makes 6 servings.

• Per serving (whole recipe, including moi, dal, raita, garnish): 560 calories, 41 g total fat, 15 g saturated fat, 130 mg cholesterol, 830 mg sodium, 15 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 4 g sugar, 34 g protein.

For the dal:

• 1/2 teaspoon garam masala
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin powder
• 1/4 cup liquefied butter
• 1/2 cup Du Puy lentils, soaked overnight in water (French green lentils)
• 1/4 cup diced onion
• 1 teaspoon crushed garlic
• 2 teaspoons diced ginger
• 2 pints chicken stock
• 3 1/2 tablespoons butter, chilled and cut into small chunks or slices
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1/4 cup minced cilantro
• 2 limes, juiced

In a pot, heat the liquefied butter until just below smoking temperature. Add the garam masala and cumin powder. Then add the onion, ginger and garlic and cook until transparent. Add the chicken stock and cook for 10 minutes.

In another pot, boil 1 cup water and pour in lentils; cook, simmering, until lentils are soft. When soft, pour into a colander or sieve and rinse, tossing and stirring, under cold running water to wash away starch. The water coming from the lentils must be clear. Stir the lentils to make sure.

Add the lentils to the curry stock and bring to the boil; reduce heat and cook, simmering, for 20 minutes. Season with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Just before serving, with the lentils on low heat, gradually stir in the chilled butter pieces and add the cilantro and lime juice.

• Per serving (for lentil dal only): 215 calories, 17 g total fat, 10 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 730 mg sodium, 12 g carbohydrates, 2.5 g fiber, 2.5 g sugar, 5.5 g protein.

Mint raita

• 3/4 cup natural yogurt
• 1/3 cup diced cucumber
• 1/2 tablespoon julienned mint leaves
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic crushed
• 1/2 tablespoon shallot diced
• 1/4 cup virgin olive oil

Blend the olive oil and yogurt together until emulsified; add remaining ingredients. Store chilled in an air-tight container.