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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, August 6, 2004

Block the sun — fashionably

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

"Why look like Elmer Fudd when you can look like Audrey Hepburn?" That's the philosophy of Elissa Margulies, the designer behind Physician Endorsed, a line of fashion-forward hats with a hefty sun-protection factor.

Margulies was in Honolulu recently en route to the Big Island to shoot her 2005 catalogue, which will feature local models at country clubs, on beaches and at the Four Seasons Hualalai. She also hired a local photographer, Tim Benko of Pahala.

Margulies is not new to hats. In the early 1980s she and her husband, Michael Ross, founded Forget Me Not, a hat manufacturing company that exploded when actress Mayim Bialik, television's "Blossom," wore their sunflower hat which became the show's trademark.

When the pair sold their company in 1998 and moved to Boulder, Colo., they enjoyed an early retirement and a life of hiking in the great outdoors. However, the combination of sun and altitude caused Margulies to develop rosacea, a chronic inflammatory condition of the capillaries, and larger blood vessels that causes redness and burning of the face. The daughter of a dermatologist, Margulies realized she had to protect her face more effectively.

Although she still had straw hats in her closet, she found that they allowed enough sun to get to her face that it exacerbated the rosacea. "Hold a hat up to the light and if you can see it (the light), it can see you," she explained.

An extensive search for the perfect hat, combining style and maximum protection, turned up nothing. "The hats I found with the best coverage were just plain ugly. When I'm outdoors, whether on a hike, shopping or walking my dog, I want to look fabulous," she said.

After researching the sun-protection industry and learning what colors and fabrics work best, Margulies co-founded Physician Endorsed. The company name derives from the fact that a panel of physicians, including a plastic surgeon and dermatologist, act as an advisory board for product development.

She had the hats tested by Patricia Cox Crews, of the Textile Department of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, a cancer survivor who pointed out to Margulies that the hats were also soft enough for even the most sensitive post-chemotherapy patient to tolerate.

Testing involved cutting up the hats and separating the pieces to ensure that each part — crown, band and brim — was sun safe. The results? Crews assigned the hats a UPF (ultraviolet-protection factor) of 50, equivalent to an SPF (sun-protection factor) of 30.

The hats are made from dense cottons, canvas and synthetics that get their protection factor from the weave, with no chemicals added. They are hand washable and can be packed flat and plumped back into shape. They adjust to many head sizes, and some styles are reversible.

Physician Endorsed hats cost $35 to $60, and are sold at golf pro shops on Kaua'i, Maui, O'ahu and the Big Island, and at Katherine's of Kona in Kailua, Kona, Riches Kahala in Kahala Mall, The Walking Co. in Ala Moana Center, Kapi'olani Medical Center Gift Shop and Casa Bella in Waikiki. They also can be ordered at www.physicianendorsed.com.

Hats designed by Elissa Margulies shield the face from the sun in a fashionable way. Margulies wanted the hats to blend safety with style.

Physician Endorsed hats

Margulies looks forward to the day "when the United States catches up to Australia. In Australia, the kids aren't allowed to go on the playground without a hat. We're not there yet."

There are more options and outlets with sun-protective clothing, too.

Sun Protection-Hawaii Inc. carries the Solumbra line, which includes 12 hat styles. While they are not as stylish as Physician Endorsed hats, most have broad brims, and one style offers a removable flap that covers the back of the neck and upper shoulders — ideal for hiking, golf or other activities that keep you in the sun for extended periods. Hats cost $39 to $49, with children's hats at $30.

Sun Protection-Hawaii Inc. also carries a line of clothing with a 30+ SPF that blocks both UVA and UVB rays: skirts, pants, jackets and shirts for men, women and children. The line is made of a microfiber so tightly woven that the sun cannot get through. Solumbra was recently approved by the FDA as a "medical device," so dermatologists have started recommending it to patients. They also encourage patients with extreme sun sensitivity to wear gloves and removable sleeves that can be slipped on and off when driving or going in and out of the sun. Clothing prices range from $50 to $90. Find them at 848 S. Beretania St., Suite 100B.

Powder Edge in the Ward Village shops carries the ExOfficio line with special weaves, colors and finishes that offer sun protection. Manager Masa Morita said their stock is a little low right now, but they have some sun-protective men's shirts, and men's and women's pants, at $65 to $80. Many ExOfficio garments also have "Buzz Off," an insect shield, to deter mosquitoes and other pests. The full line is available at www.exofficio.com. Morita said the shop hopes to get in some North Face sun-protective shirts as well.

• • •

Prevention and Detection of Skin Cancer

The Hawai'i Dermatologic Society recommends these precautions:

• Avoid sun exposure between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

• Use an SPF-30 sunscreen with UVA and UVB blockers every day.

• Apply sunscreen generously, every two hours.

• Wear a broad-brimmed hat and long sleeves when outdoors.

• Reflective surfaces, such as sand and water, can amplify ultraviolet light exposure.

• Protect children from the damaging rays of the sun.

• See a board-certified dermatologist for any new or changed skin lesion.

Sun Exposure, Sunscreen and Skin Cancer


The American Cancer Society, the Hawai'i Dermatologic Society and the Hawaii Skin Cancer Coalition offer these facts about skin cancer:

• Most people, when applying sunscreen, use less than the recommended amount. A full ounce of sunscreen constitutes an average amount for total body coverage.

• Skin cancer (basal-cell and squamous-cell carcinoma) will affect one in five Americans, with more than one million new cases expected this year.

• Melanoma incidence in America is now estimated to be one person in 68. The incidence of melanoma in the 1930s was one in 1,500.

• Melanoma can be easily cured with simple surgery if caught early. It can be fatal if detected at a late, advanced state.