FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Book finds great little restaurants

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

I know David casually; we broke bao together when he was writing the book. He calls the book "a labor of fun and love that I could get my heart and tongue into and an excuse to spend more time in Hawai'i." But does Goldman, who lives in Santa Barbara, Calif., have the credentials to evaluate local food? Yes, he does. He spent some of his childhood years here and his family owns a place out Mokulei'a way.

To compile this collection, Goldman roamed neighborhoods, checking out fading storefront diners and okazu-yas that consist of little more than a takeout window and a table. Although he includes some spots here where you can spend a bunch (Tokkuri Tei, Mr. Ojisan), the average bill is less than $10 per person.

Goldman will no doubt find himself defending his choices. (I'm wondering why Kin Wah is in, but Kane-'ohe's other great Chinese restaurant, Pah Ke's, is not? And why no Nori's in Hilo?).

But he's done his research and, he says, "local food is so subjective. The same meal I may have loved, my best, most knowledgeable, food friend will come back the next day and say they hated it. I'm not saying this is the 119 best local joints in the

Islands, but that every one of them has something going for it — sometimes one particular good dish, maybe the warmth of the family who runs it, maybe the location."

A well-brought-up local boy who "no talk stink," Goldman resorts to humor and sometimes hyperbole when he's trying not to say "don't order this." But he does share opinions.

Corned-beef hash, for instance. He thinks most corned beef hash in Hawai'i is just mashed potatoes with strings in it. An exception, which he praises highly, is the crispy, garlicky hash at Junie's Coffee Shop in Kane'ohe.

Goldman is generous with insider info: when to visit an okazu-ya for the widest possible choice, the quirky rules of various establishments, which Thai spots lay on the chilies, dishes to avoid and dishes not to miss.

As piquant as the ume in the sushi is a chapter up front in which Goldman lists his favorite dishes and where to find them. Good job, David.