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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Wednesday, August 25, 2004

SEVEN OR LESS
Spice up salsa with pineapple, orange and mint

By Carole Kotkin
Knight Ridder News Service

Salsa (sauce in Spanish) has been an indispensable element of Mexican cuisine since the Aztec civilization. There are many regional varieties, but the four main building blocks of salsa fresca (uncooked) are onions, garlic, chiles and tomatoes.

Chefs have expanded the basic concept to include everything from papaya and pineapple to basil and lemongrass. These inventive condiments are a great way to spice up chicken, pork, steak, duck, turkey or fish entrées.

To make the sauce, you'll only need a cutting board, a sharp knife, a blender or food processor and a few tips:

• Fresh chile peppers can contain oils that burn, so take care not to accidentally rub your eyes after chopping and seeding chiles. You may want to wear rubber gloves. Most of the heat is in the inner membranes of the pods, so for chile flavor without too much heat, scoop out the seeds and veins.

• Chiles heat varies with the season and growing conditions. Cut into a pepper, touch your fingertip to the cut surface and taste it. Then adjust the quantity accordingly. Usually, the smaller the chile, the hotter it is. A red color generally indicates a riper, sweeter chile.

• The way you cut the ingredients affects the salsa's flavor. Coarsely chopped versions offer more texture and are more like salads than sauces. A blender or food processor works well for finer-textured salsas if you are careful not to overprocess; pulse for best results. For a chunkier sauce, chop by hand.

• Raw onions add pungency. To minimize any biting aftertaste that may overpower the other flavors, place chopped onions in a strainer and rinse under running water (and drain well) before combining with other ingredients.

• Lime is a traditional source of tartness, but tamarind paste, vinegar, sour orange or grapefruit juice perform the same function.

• In place of cilantro, use mint, flat-leaf parsley or basil for an aromatic effect.

• After preparing a salsa, place it in the refrigerator for about an hour to let flavors blend.

• Use the best-quality ingredients: good olive oil and vinegar, fresh herbs and the freshest, ripest fruits or vegetables.

• If your mouth is on fire after eating salsa, cool the heat with a sip of wine. The chile's fire-producing chemical, capsaicin, dissolves in alcohol. Or quench the fire with dairy products or starchy foods.

Serve this fruity pineapple salsa with grilled chicken, fish or pork accompanied by rice.

SEARED PINEAPPLE SALSA

  • 1 ripe pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
  • 1/4 red bell pepper, seeded and diced
  • 2 teaspoons chipotle chili pur?e (see note)
  • 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
  • 1 tablespoon minced cilantro
  • 2 teaspoons light brown sugar

Cut pineapple slices in half. Working in batches, sauté without oil in a nonstick pan over medium heat for about 8 minutes per side, until caramelized and golden brown. Dice the pineapple and transfer to a bowl. Add remaining ingredients and combine. Taste and add more lime juice and chile purée if desired. Makes about 3 cups.

Note: Chipotles are smoked, dried jalapenos, available in dried form or canned in adobo sauce. Simply purée the canned chiles with some of the adobo in a blender or processor.

Source: "The Great Salsa Book" by Mark Miller (Wiley, $14.95)

• Per 1/4 cup serving: 24 calories (2 percent from fat), 0.1 g fat (0 saturated, 0 monounsaturated), 0 cholesterol, 0.3 g protein, 6.3 g carbohydrates, 0.6 g fiber, 8.9 mg sodium.