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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Wednesday, December 8, 2004

TASTE
Gifts that keep chefs cooking

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Wendy Kaneshiro looked up from the display of a dozen or so types of salt and pepper grinders at Executive Chef, Ward Centre, and frowned.

Orka heat-proof oven mitt, $37.50.




Kippy pot holder, $18.75.

From left, Sili silicone barbecue, basting and pastry brushes; Easy Lock pasta tongs; Le Creuset silicone whisk; Natural Craft pasta measure; Zyliss chopper; Endurance condiment spatula; various brands of silicone spatulas; Microplane zester. Bottom center, Endurance silicone squeezable measuring cups. (Tongs, whisks, spatulas, zester courtesy Executive Chef.)

Photos by Deborah Booker • The Honolulu Advertiser


The Gripper Jar opener, $19.95, kitchen-supply and department stores.

Sonoma Reserve wine bottle stopper & pourer, $4.99, Daiei.

Slicky sesame seed grinder, $6, Shirokiya.

Tuits wine glass name tags, $4.95 for 20, Executive Chef.

Garlic twist, $17.95, Executive Chef.

Kuhn Rikon magnetic trivet, $37.95, kitchen-supply and department stores.
"I'm just not sure," she said. "I know my girlfriend wants a set, but I don't know which to get. I guess I'm going to have to do more research. Gotta be sneaky — figure out what kind she likes without giving it away."

And therein lies the challenge for those shopping for a gift for their favorite home cook: How to be sure that you're buying something they'll really use, not just another gadget to crowd the junk drawer?

You can, as Kaneshiro is doing, conduct a little sneaky research. You can spend some time on the Internet comparing and contrasting the features of different kitchen appliances and tools. You can check Burt Wolf's "The New Cook's Catalogue," a guide to cooking equipment that discusses the desirable attributes of thousands of tools (although it's four years old and so doesn't include some of the latest developments, such as heat-proof silicon utensils). You can consult with salespeople as to what's most popular and why.

We did a little bit of all of the above as we developed this year's guide to gifts for the cook. And we factored in the all-important budget issue, researching gifts in three categories: The Big Gift, Everyday Equipment and Small But Powerful. (We particularly recommend kitchen-supply shops and the housewares departments of stores such as Daiei and Shirokiya for young people who have just a few pennies and a mom, dad, aunt or uncle who likes to cook.) We've suggested where to find these items in Honolulu. Online sources are also an option.

The big gift

This year, three appliances are attracting interest:

• The new Cuisinart 11 Cup Power Prep Plus food processor, which features a variable speed motor, a supersized feed tube, easier cleaning, a more contemporary rounded look, and patent-pending "Dough Control" technology that adjusts speed to ensure proper dough consistency in bread-baking plus a 10-year warranty, the longest in the business. About $200 (it was on special at Macy's for $199 last week). Department stores, kitchen-supply shops.

• Pressure cookers. This old-fashioned appliance is enjoying a resurgence in popularity. Look for: triple-wall-bottom stainless steel construction (avoid aluminum), cover-locking system with backup safety valve, capable of achieving 15 pounds per square inch or better, 5- to 7-quart capacity, two handles for easy transport. Sets with larger and smaller pots are nice. You can spend as little as $60, but it's best to get a well-known, reliable brand; expect to spend $100. Department stores, kitchen-supply shops.

• Slow cookers. Another comeback kid, the slow cooker returns with additional features, including variable settings, dual-pot and oval models, programmable timers, a variety of sizes (some larger pots come with a small pot inside), and removable serving vessels. For a very large family, or for use primarily for entertaining, choose the 5- or 6-quart size. For average users, the 3.5-quart size is fine. $40 to $100, depending on features. Cuisinart's professional-looking brushed aluminum 6.5-quart Slow Cooker includes a removable ceramic cooking pot, rubber nonslip feet, a rack for use with smaller baking dishes, cookbook and retractable cord ($100 at Macy's). Department stores, kitchen-supply shops.

Everyday equipment

• Silicone city. Silicone utensils have been around for a few years, but the average home cook is just catching on, says Vicki

Kaleopa'a of Executive Chef. The material is desirable because it won't harm nonstick surfaces and is heat-proof to extremely high temperatures (425 to 500 degrees, depending on formulation).

Over at Compleat Kitchen, marketing manager Kathy Rueter says she wasn't a believer in silicone baking equipment until she made her gooey, sticky pecan tassie tarts and watched them brown up perfectly and then pop right out of the mini tart pans. Especially popular are baking sheet liners from Silpat, Le Creuset, she said.

Kaleopa'a says guys like the roomy Orka brand 17-inch oven mitt ($37.50), so heat-proof that you can plunge your arm into a pot of boiling water to lift out that crab or lobster. No cook should be without a couple of silicone spatulas that mold to different surface shapes, allowing you to capture the very last drop of sauce or batter (various brands, $4.50 to $11.50). Handle covers and pot holders (various brands, $4.50 to $18.75) are a colorful, helpful innovation, too.

Silicone-coated whisks with ergonomic plastic handles are easier to use, won't scrape nonstick surfaces, can be used to incorporate hot sauces right on the stove (Oxo Good Grips in black, $6.95 up to Le Creuset in various colors, $21.95). Pastry and basting brushes that don't melt are cool, too (Sili brand, $15-$25). Kitchen-supply shops. Daiei has colorful, squeezable Endurance brand measuring bowls ($10 a set).

• The Garlic Twist. Place peeled garlic inside, twist a few times, and the teeth inside macerate and mash garlic like a garlic press, but with less work and easier cleanup ($17.95). Executive Chef.

• Bonjour Salad Dressing Maker. Takes the guesswork out of salad dressing with a bottle printed with recipes and fill lines, and a battery-operated blender device to emulsify the oil and acid ($24). Compleat Kitchen.

• Jar openers. If there's an older person on your list, an excellent choice is a tool to make opening lids easier. Kuhn Rikon's The Gripper has adjustable jaws that tighten around a wide range of lid sizes and open them with little strain ($19.95). Kitchen-supply shops, department stores.

• Microplane cutting tools. These tools from the Grace Co., made from surgical-grade stainless steel, based on carpentry rasps and equally sharp and powerful, are tops with chefs but still being discovered by home cooks. They range from shavers that create curls of cheese or chocolate to graters in a range of sizes to zesters that tackle citrus peel, hard cheeses and coconut and to drum graters (the kind with the round drum and the handle for hard cheese or nuts). $10 to $30; some in sets. Kitchen-supply shops.

• Kuhn Rikon Magic Trivet. Cool idea. The trivet's three magnets stick to the pot as you move it from counter to table or wherever; the reverse side of the magnets is smooth plastic that won't harm surfaces ($37.95). Kitchen-supply shops, department stores.

• Zyliss Chopper with Cup. Chopper comes with a plastic storage cup with a cover so you can chop a small amount of nuts or herbs, then store leftovers. Can be used directly on cutting board, too ($25). Compleat Kitchen.

• Kuhn Rikon Easy Lock wire tongs. Last year, flat tongs were released, for turning delicate fish fillets or fried cakes. This year, the 14-inch pasta tongs make short work of lifting slippery pasta from the cooking water or bowl ($21.95). Kitchen-supply shops, department stores.

• Kitchen torches. Butane torches used to create the brittle sugary coating on cr?me br?l?e and to perform other kitchen tasks (browning meringue, roasting bell peppers, flamb?ing desserts, lighting a lot of birthday candles at once, smoothing a chocolate glaze). Both Compleat Kitchen and Executive Chef say these are popular sellers. ($35 to $50).

Small but powerful

• Apron. A plain, utilitarian chef's apron with ample coverage and extra-long ties is a boon to any cook. The Y. Hata retail outlet has them in several solid colors for $3.10.

• Rectangular measuring spoons. Stainless-steel spoons are designed to fit readily in small spaces, such as spice jars. RSVP brand, six-spoon set ($11) at Compleat Kitchen.

• Things Asian. We had fun poking around Daiei, Shirokiya and Marukai, where there are many small, well-made tools and much inexpensive tableware, from colorful plastic rice bowls for $1 each to porcelain chopstick holders in charming shapes for $2.50 each. At Daiei, we found the Natural Craft pasta measure, a device that allows you to figure out just how much spaghetti to cook for 2, 4 or 6 people ($1). The Slicky is a little plastic grinder that allows you to release the flavor of raw or toasted sesame seeds ($6). Bamboo trivets, saimin spoons, hashi (chopsticks), sushi mats and serving plates all make nice gifts for just a few dollars.

• Condiment spatula by Endurance. You know that last, elusive glob of mayonnaise or swipe of ketchup? This very long-handled device with its cupped end will help you scoop that right up (Endurance brand, various colors, $3.95). Executive Chef.

• Stopper and pourer. This combination tool includes a pourer that fits neatly into wine bottles and also some olive-oil bottles, and a plug that fits into the pourer. Pull the plug and pour, then restore the plug and store (Sonoma Reserve brand, $4.99). Daiei.

• Tuits wine-glass name tags. Keeping track of your wine glass doesn't even require memorizing a symbol anymore; these paper rings fit around the stem and you can write your name on them ($4.95 for 20 Tuit-brand tags). Executive Chef.