Posted on: Wednesday, December 8, 2004
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RAISE A GLASS
Try great Tuscan vintages
By Brian Geiser
Like other "wine travelers," my vacations are all about checking out what's hot in the wine world. The wines of Tuscany are indeed very hot, and I had the good fortune to poke around that region for a week this fall. Life is harmonious in Tuscany, with people enjoying the regional specialties and traditional wines of their own region just as they have for centuries. Some of them say why look further when we have great food and wine right here? One vivid memory is of grape vines growing next to rows of very old olive trees. This was such a beautiful sight, and for an American, an unusual one, that reflects the preservation of an earlier era of wine- making.
It's helpful to review the Italian wine classification system. Only about 12 percent of Italian wines are labeled DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), and fewer than 29 wines are labeled DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata et Garantita), indicating an extra degree of quality. You may also see bottles labeled with a recently created category IGT (Indicazione Geografice Tipica) which corresponds to France's "Vin de Pays" ("country wine," the third-highest wine quality level), and some with the lowest category Vina da Tavola (table wines).
Sine the 1980s Italians have been concentrating on quality, especially in Chianti. Although Tuscan cooking doesn't really feature tomatoes, Chianti is one of the few Tuscan wines that stand up well to tomato sauces. Brunello di Montalino is bigger, more powerful and more tanic. Vino nobile de Montepulciano is spicy with crisp acidity and good with beef dishes.
Here's my advice for the holidays. If you have money for a holiday splurge, consider what's unofficially known as the "Super Tuscans." For $100 or more a bottle, look for Masseto, Ornellaia, Sassicaia, Solaia, Summus and Tignanello.
Fortunately, there are other choices, because Italy is the largest wine-producing country in the world and makes some of the best wines in the world. So it's easy to find something you'll like (and can afford) in the Italian section of your favorite store.
I've called around to give you suggestions on what's available in Hawai'i. Listed first is the type of Tuscan wine; second, the brands available and their approximate prices:
Brian Geiser is the sommelier at Chef Mavro restaurant. This column is a semi-weekly lesson in wines, written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
Tuscan wines are food-friendly and go well with everything from spaghetti to plate lunch and holiday turkey dinner. The wines of Tuscany are mainly sangiovese-based, and three of the most important are Chianti, Brunello de Montalcino, and vino nobile de Montepulciano.
