Posted on: Wednesday, December 15, 2004
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Specialty meats are limited here
By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor
This time of year, I hear from readers who would like to serve something a bit different for the holidays: British transplants in search of a Christmas goose, health-conscious consumers seeking free-range or organic turkeys, gourmets planning to serve quail or squab. But specialty meat markets, rare in the Islands, tend to focus on particular ethnic specialties or big-box freezer meats.
A mail-order source of fine meats, including organic and wild turkeys and other meats and poultry, is D'Artagnan (www.dartagnan.com), a highly regarded New Jersey purveyor. Their meats are costly, however ($48 for a 5- to 7- pound wild turkey, plus $25 shipping costs). Turkey: Nationwide there is increasing interest in less-processed forms of turkey free-range (meaning the animal grazed freely), certified organic (meaning raised without antibiotics, hormones, on land free of pesticides), heirloom (a.k.a. wild, meaning the types of turkeys that once lived in the wild) and fresh (meaning never frozen) and natural (meaning free of injected solutions). Unfortunately, these are hard to find here. Kokua Market in Mo'ili'ili is expecting a shipment this week of frozen free-range turkeys ($2.19 a pound for members; $2.59 nonmembers) and certified organic turkeys (2.99 members, $3.59 nonmembers). 2643 S. King, 941-1922.
Umeke Market is bringing in frozen, free-range turkeys at $2.89 a pound (also grass-fed beef, free-range chickens, buffalo meat).
• Ham: Umeke Market stocks Niman Ranch nitrite-free hams. 4400 Kalaniana'ole. 739-2990. • Goose: Frozen goose is available in some larger markets, such as Safeway stores. The Meat Shop of Tacoma (Wash.), a purveyor of organic meats, sells pastured and corn-fed certified organic frozen geese, raised by Hutterites in Washington state, through www.localharvest.org. They're pricey, though: $83 for a 10- to 12-pound goose, $105 for a 13- to 16-pound goose. R. Field at Foodland sometimes orders goose; check stores. • Duck: Most larger supermarkets carry frozen Long Island duckling. Aala Meat Market sells whole duck and also duck breasts by the case. 751 Waiakamilo, 832-6650. R. Field sometimes carries smoked or fresh duck breast; check stores. • Quail and squab: Hoong Wun Market, corner of North King and Kekaulike in Chinatown, sells frozen quail and squab. 533-6452. (Defrost these slowly in refrigerator to retain moisture.) • Goat: Stalls in Maunakea Marketplace (i.e. Susan's, Malasig/Seven Sisters, Nardo's) and Kekaulike Market (Norma's) in Chinatown accept advance orders for whole goat for roasting. • Whole pig: Chun's Meat Market requires one-week advance notice for orders for raw pig for imu or Chinese-style whole roast pig. 157 N. King, 533-0577. • Grass-fed beef: Umeke Market, Kokua Market, Aala Meat Market and North Shore Cattle Co. (phone or e-mail order) all are sources of grass-fed beef. Get orders in now for special meats because supplies are limited.