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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Thursday, December 16, 2004

Irons solid in huge surf

Kaua'i's Bruce Irons said he caught the biggest waves of his life in winning the Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational.

Photos courtesy Quiksilver


By Dayton Morinaga
Advertiser Staff Writer

Bruce Irons is now surfing's version of Bruce Almighty.

Irons turned in one of the most memorable performances in surfing history to win the Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational yesterday.

"I caught the biggest waves of my life today," said Irons, 25. "I'll go to my grave happy knowing I won the Eddie Aikau."

Only 24 surfers are invited to participate in the contest, and the "Eddie" can run only on a day when waves are at least 20 feet (by traditional Hawaiian measurements). Yesterday, it was completed for only the seventh time since it was created in 1984.

Because of its high standard, the Eddie Aikau contest is the most respected event in the sport of surfing.

"This is greater than I ever could have imagined," said Irons, who was competing in the event for the first time. "It's every bit as big as it looked in all the videos and pictures I saw growing up."

Actually, it was bigger.

The surf ranged from 15 to 30 feet yesterday, with some wave-face heights near 50 feet.

"It was one of the best Eddies ever, I reckon," said Australia's Ross Clarke-Jones, who placed second. "I've been surfing here for 18 years, and this is as good as I've ever seen it."

Irons, who is from Hanalei, Kaua'i, was up to the challenge.

From left, Ross Williams, Kelly Slater and Bruce Irons share a wave during the Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational.

Photos courtesy Quiksilver

He scored 370 out of a possible 400 points, including a perfect 100 for a massive wave during his morning heat.

"When you get out there, you get this chicken-skin vibe, like Eddie is out there pushing you to go," he said. "And then just watching all the other guys charging, I felt like when it was my turn to go, I had to go. I was invited here, so I had to show I deserved it."

On his perfect 100 wave, Irons dropped down the face of a 40-foot wave and rode it several hundred yards to the shoreline. Just before he reached the shore, he tucked into the dangerous barreling section of the wave, in front of a roaring crowd on shore.

"They kind of got me going," Irons said of the crowd, which was estimated to be "around 20,000" throughout the day by the Honolulu Police Department officers on duty at the event.

Each surfer got to surf in two separate one-hour heats — one in the morning and one in the afternoon. The top four waves from either heat counted toward each surfer's final score.

Irons secured the victory by posting a near-perfect 99 in his afternoon heat.

BRUCE IRONS
"There's fear, but I think that's what gave me the adrenaline rush to go," Irons said of his big-wave abilities.

Irons was awarded $55,000, and joined an elite short list of "Eddie" champions. The only others to win it are Denton Miyamura (1984), Clyde Aikau (1986), Keone Downing (1990), Noah Johnson (1999), Ross Clarke-Jones (2001) and Kelly Slater (2002).

Clarke-Jones placed second yesterday with 338 points, including a 94 and an 87. He was still in Australia on Monday, but made the flight to Honolulu when he heard about the big swell.

"I actually thought it might be too big, but it turned out to be just right," said Clarke-Jones, who won $12,000. "Bruce was going for it. He deserves the win. He got a 100 out of 100, and then a 99. That about says it all right there."

Shane Dorian of the Big Island placed third with 331 points and received $7,000.

Irons is the younger half of a remarkable set of brothers who have dominated the surfing world recently. His older brother, Andy Irons, is the current three-time world champion.

Andy Irons placed fourth yesterday, also in his first try at "The Eddie." He also had a 99-point ride in his morning heat.

"That was the biggest wave I ever caught in my life," he said. "Surfing such big waves, I have an ear-to-ear grin. I might not be the winner, but I feel like one."

Just about every surfer in the contest felt that way, too.

The event was created to honor Eddie Aikau, Waimea Bay's first lifeguard and one of Hawai'i's greatest watermen. He was lost at sea in 1978 during a solo rescue attempt for the voyaging canoe Hokule'a, which had capsized.

Two members of the Aikau family — Clyde and Zane — competed yesterday. Clyde is Eddie's younger brother; Zane is Eddie's nephew.

"This event honors my brother and from a family perspective, it's really humbling to think that all these people came out to honor him," said Clyde Aikau, 51. "Guaranteed, I think Eddie's up there smiling — 20 to 30 years later, people still know who he is."

California's Darryl "Flea" Virostko sustained a knee injury during a wipeout, and needed assistance from lifeguards. He appeared to be OK after the event.

Final results

1, Bruce Irons (Hawai'i), 370 points, $55,000. 2, Ross Clarke-Jones (Australia), 338, $12,000. 3, Shane Dorian (Hawai'i), 331, $7,000. 4, Andy Irons (Hawai'i), 329, $5,000. 5, Peter Mel (California), 329, $4,000. 6, Kelly Slater (Florida), 327, $3,000. 7, Michael Ho (Hawai'i), 264, $2,000. 8, Titus Kinimaka (Hawai'i), 262, $2,000. 9, Noah Johnson (Hawai'i), 258, $2,000. 10, Paul Paterson (Australia), 255, $2,000. 11, Rusty Keaulana (Hawai'i), 252, $2,000. 12, Jamie Sterling (Hawai'i), 250, $2,000. 13, Clyde Aikau (Hawai'i), 249, $2,000. 14, Myles Padaca (Hawai'i), 236, $2,000. 15, Tony Moniz (Hawai'i), 234, $2,000. 16, Pancho Sullivan (Hawai'i), 227, $2,000. 17, Ross Williams (Hawai'i), 217, $2,000. 18, Makua Rothman (Hawai'i), 214, $2,000. 19, Mark Healey (Hawai'i), 214, $2,000. 20, Tony Ray (Australia), 207, $2,000. 21, Darryl Virostko (California), 194, $2,000. 22, Brian Keaulana (Hawai'i), 176, $2,000. 23, Zane Aikau (Hawai'i), 149, $2,000. 24, John Gomes (Hawai'i), 132, $2,000.

Reach Dayton Morinaga at dmorinaga@honoluluadvertiser.com or 535-8101.