Champagne is more than just fizzy stuff used to launch ships. The genuine article comes only from France's Champagne region. Sparkling wines from elsewhere are just that — sparkling wines, although they may be labeled "champagne." Think fake Gucci purse and you get the idea.

Champagne is about an hour's drive northeast of Paris. It is famous for its unique terroir — special growing conditions, most importantly soil and climate, that contribute to producing the three grape varieties needed to make champagne.

The region has focused on producing champagne for more than 300 years. Strict rules govern champagne production. By law, only chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes are used. The grapes, harvested by hand from many vineyards in the region, are made into still wines. The winemaker makes a blend from these wines and usually adds older wines too, adding complexity and softening the blend.

The méthode champenoise (champagne method) is how the French put the bubbles in the bottle. A mix of sugar and yeast is added to the blended base wine. This is allowed to age and ferment a second time in the bottle, creating carbon dioxide which forms the bubbles.

After this second fermentation and aging, sediments from the dead yeast are removed. Usually a small amount of sugar dissolved in wine is added before the bottle is permanently corked. The champagne is left to age longer, typically 2› to 3 years.

Bottle labels: The brand or name of the producer is often most prominent, probably showing one of the great champagne houses such as Moet & Chandon (pronounced "mow-ET shan-DAWN").

• Nonvintage wines do not display the words "nonvintage" on the label. This is the most common champagne, the least-expensive and made by the aforementioned blending process.

• Vintage champagne has the year printed on the label, indicating that all of the grapes were harvested that single year.

• Prestige cuvée, aka têtes de cuvée ("tet duh cue-VAY") or premium vintage, is the best champagne. It is usually vintage champagne made from the highest quality grapes from the finest vineyards during exceptional vintage years. It is typically aged five to eight years producing better flavor, longer finish — the aftertaste — and often, finer bubbles.

Grape type also can be featured on the label. Blanc de blancs ("blonk duh blonk") champagne is made only from chardonnay, a white grape, and typically is light-bodied. Blanc de noirs ("blonk duh nwar") is rare and made from only black pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes. It is often a deeper gold color and full-bodied. Rosé champagnes come in a range of pinks and are known for their ability to go with food. They are made by either adding a little red pinot noir still wine before bottling or allowing fermentation in contact with black grape skins.

Last is the sweetness factor. There are six categories: extra brut ("brute"), brut, extra sec ("sek," meaning dry), sec, demi-sec (medium dry) and doux (sweet). Most champagnes are brut, though not all brut champagnes have the same dryness.

Champagne should be stored at 53 to 59 degrees and served at 45 to 48 degrees. Chill in the refrigerator for three to four hours or in an ice bucket (half water, half ice) 15 to 20 minutes. Buy champagne in stores with high turnover. Do not keep refrigerate champagne for too long, because it's susceptible to vibrations and food odors.

Open champagne quietly and deliberately. Remove the foil and wire cage while keeping one hand on the cork. With the other hand, grip the bottle about two-thirds of the way down, then twist the bottle while maintaining pressure on the cork. Resist the pressure of the releasing cork until you hear a gentle sigh or hiss. Do not aim the bottle at anyone or anything breakable while doing this. Wrapping the bottleneck in a cloth during opening is a good idea in case the glass breaks.

Always drink champagne from flute or tulip-shaped glasses, which preserves the bubbles longer. Hold only the stem of the glass to avoid warming the wine.

The heavier the food or sauce, the more full-bodied the champagne should be. Blanc de blancs go well with appetizers, first courses or delicate fish. Most medium- to full-bodied bruts and rosés go well with dinner — rich fish (salmon, tuna and mackerel), simply prepared poultry and game birds, white meats (veal, pork and lamb). Spicy Asian food can go with not-too- dry medium- or full-bodied champagnes. Japanese food can handle very dry bruts, blanc de blancs or even rosés.

Champagnes best match mushrooms, lobster, oysters, scallops, caviar, salmon, duck, goose, foie gras and hard, aged cheeses (parmesan, sharp cheddar). Most champagnes don't accompany desserts well. Avoid champagne with soft, pungent cheeses, tomato dishes and chocolate.

And what about all those sparkling wines from elsewhere? Some are very good. Most of the finer ones are made using the champagne method. Many of California's sparkling-wine producers are owned by top French champagne houses. These can be just as expensive as the real thing.

Spain produces sparkling wines known as cava ("kahva"). They are usually cheaper and made from a blend of parellada, xarello and macabeo (viura) grapes. Italy is known for its spumante sparkling wines. Two favorites are light-hearted prosecco and sweet Asti, a great dessert wine.

Your waiter, sommelier or wine salesperson can help you select champagnes. On this page are recommendations from local wine experts.