THE NIGHT STUFF
Another evening of entertaining eats

By Derek Paiva
Advertiser Entertainment Writer

Ross Migita of Kalihi nibbles on pupu as Christine Stone of Makiki sings karaoke at King Street Cafe, 1380 S. King St. Photos by Rebecca Breyer • The Honolulu Advertiser

Dayna Murata, left, and Casey Shea, both of Makiki, play a video game together.

Bartender Cheryl Ushijima of Moanalua prepares a drink at one of two full-service bars.

Brian Zagami of Makiki Heights plays a game of darts at the King Street Cafe, Ke'eaumoku and King streets.

And after last week's Night Stuff visit to Side Street Inn, I was pretty stoked that no one wrote or called in to berate me about how a reader-suggested idea to visit a couple of popular Honolulu bar-and-grills to review their pupu was a bad idea only I (and my stomach) could appreciate. A couple of readers were even enamored enough to volunteer themselves as expert critics for this week's trip to King Street Cafe.

"Just pay me in Korean-style fried chicken and pulehu ribs," begged Alex Santos, of Makiki. "I'll buy the beer." Said 'Aina Haina resident Michelle Han: "I've been trying to get my friends to go for so long, but they always shut me down. ... I'd be a good partner in Night Stuff for this one."

Thanks, Alex and Michelle. But my usual partner in Night Stuff staked dibs on this one early.

King Street Cafe was loud with the chatter of a good-sized gathering of eating and imbibing patrons, and a collection of hip-hop and R&B CDs (Notorious B.I.G., Nelly, OutKast), on the Friday evening we stopped by. With two full-service bars, a wall of dart games, a half-dozen or so televisions for karaoke and cable TV, the kind of relaxing illumination that only the glow of many neon beer lights can provide, and more importantly, many generous platters of visually appealing food on just about every table, we figured we'd be OK.

Most of the tables and both bars were crowded with patrons (mostly groups of twenty- and thirtysomethings), but we were lucky to snag one of the cafe's few booths along large windows looking out onto evening business on King and Ke'eaumoku streets. Service was quick and cordial.

The menu was significantly smaller than Side Street's, but with a more straightforward focus on local comfort food. Dishes tasted and appeared homemade, were served in good-sized, intriguingly presented portions, and were reasonably priced.

Our order of shoyu-style 'ahi poke was pricey (market price that evening was $12) but worth every penny. Heavy with tender high-grade 'ahi morsels coated just so in a tasty brew of shoyu, sesame oil and other flavorings, it arrived admirably light on mild round and green onions, and generous on crunchy ogo. No leftovers there.

Seeking out a couple of menu items similar to food we had ordered at Side Street for comparison, we selected chicken drumettes with Korean-style sauce ($8.25) and salt-and-pepper pork chops ($10.25). Marinated, battered and deep-fried, the chicken pupu boasted eight large juicy and crispy sweet-and-spicy drumettes with a decadent hint of salt peeking through each bite. A garnish of homemade (and spicy) kim chee finished the dish wonderfully. Seasoned simply, lightly coated in flour and then browned just enough to keep the two chops extremely tender and juicy, our pupu pork chops were slightly thinner than Side Street's, but no less tasty.

Of King Street Cafe's three off-menu specials that evening, we chose spicy black-bean prawns ($12). A large platter arrived loaded with steaming medium-sized prawns in a mildly spicy sauce. (We tried to count 'em but gave up after hitting two dozen.) My partner would've preferred these prepared and served without their heads and legs attached, but I appreciated both the presentation and the way the preparation effectively drew the sweet black-bean sauce into the prawns. The dish was topped with a colorful and wholly apropos garnish of deep green ocean salad.

We were enjoying everything about our visit to King Street Cafe until the karaoke machine was fired up way too loudly for our tastes 'round 10:30 p.m. But as with Side Street Inn, we'll definitely be back to sample grinds we couldn't get to this time around.

Still wanna buy the beer, Alex?

Reach Derek Paiva at 525-8005 or dpaiva@honoluluadvertiser.com.

WHAT: King Street Cafe

WHERE: 1380 S. King St. (corner of King and Ke'eaumoku streets), 942-9990

HOURS: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. weekdays; noon-2 a.m. Saturdays, 2 p.m.-2 a.m. Sundays

OUR ARRIVAL/DEPARTURE: 8:45 p.m./11:15 p.m. on a Friday

AGE OF CROWD: 20s to 50s

WHAT TO WEAR: Casual dress

PEAK CROWD WHILE THERE: About 75

THE LAYOUT: Two bars, one large dining area; smoking allowed

FOOD PRICES: $3.25-$13.25

SERVICE: Our servers quickly took our orders, and were attentive throughout the evening.

BEST SEATS: Booths along large windows looking out on King and Ke'eaumoku streets

BESIDES EATING: Karaoke, darts, TV

GRINDS WE'LL ORDER NEXT: Pulehu ribs with chili-pepper water ($11.25), teriyaki-marinated rib-eye beef ($8.25), shoyu-seared poke (market price), and (if it's on the specials menu) garlic clams ($10)

Night notes ...

Twilight, the monthly with a Waikiki view at the newly renovated Hanohano Room, debuted last month to turn-away crowds. Now there's a cover, but the upscale party (that means dress up, people) returns for another edition from 9 p.m. Saturday to 2 a.m. Sunday. DJs KSM, Rayne, Drift and SubZero will be at the turntables. Entry is $10. At the Sheraton Waikiki.

San Francisco-based hip-hop crew Psychokinetics will headline a special Mardi Gras Pussycat Lounge at Wave Waikiki on Tuesday. Performing an "intelligent" mix of live jazz- and jungle-influenced hip, Psychokinetics closes an evening of free beads, Mardi Gras-themed accoutrements, DJs and special guests. Sporting gold, green and purple before midnight gets you in free. Otherwise, $10, 21 and older. Psychokinetics will also be at the Wave on Wednesday and Thursday.

Billing yourselves as the "last real rock band" is a dicey boast for any gathering of dudes with guitars and amps. But Los Angeles-based Rhino Bucket swears they're the real rawkin' deal. Among their claims to fame: Their music was in the 1992 film "Wayne's World," and lead guitarist Brian Forsythe was formerly with Kix. (Yup, it's never really been just a kids cereal, kids). At Gussie L'Amour's, 8:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Tickets are $7 (advance), $10 day of show. More information at 836-7883.

And finally, help celebrate Rebel Girl Underground's One Year Anniversary Bash with DJs Primmitiv, Rebel Girl, Lady J, Missy and the RGU's entire crew of artists and musicians at Chuck's Cellar from 10 p.m. Saturday to 2 a.m. Sunday. Ka'iulani and Kuhio avenues, 21 and older. Cover is $5.