Wines of Languedoc have climbed social ladder

By Johnathan L. Wright
Reno Gazette-Journal

Although this swath of south-central France is the country's largest wine-producing region, its massive yield was of unremarkable quality, and very little was exported to the United States. The French looked on Languedoc-Roussillon mainly as a source of the kind of inexpensive red table wine used every day in France.

Why would Americans be interested in that?

And then about 10 years ago, producers in the region began to lift themselves from the bargain basement.

Yields were lowered so the wines could be made more distinctive. Producers started blending typical Languedoc-Roussillon varietals such as grenache and cinsault with better-known and better-quality varietals such as merlot and syrah.

More recently, some producers have changed their labels for the American market because Americans buy wine by grape variety, not region of origin.

"The soil was always there, the vineyards were always there," said Devlon Moore, co-owner of Washoe Wine Co. "Producers just needed to take certain steps to raise the quality."

Americans have taken notice of the changes. Bonny Doon makes a wine using grapes grown in Languedoc-Roussillon.

Wine behemoth Robert Mondavi owns land in the area.

"For the most part, you shouldn't have to spend more than $25 a bottle for Languedoc wine," Moore said.

"And you can still find a lot of great wines for under $15 a bottle. I honestly think Languedoc wines are where wine is going. People are sick of paying $80 for a Napa wine with 5-year-old vines."

Moore said he's trying to stock as many Languedoc-Roussillon wines as he can.

If he and other enthusiasts have their way, wines from this dry, sunny section of France will be one of the big wine stories of 2004. Here's a look at some of what's available now.

2001 Château Mas Neuf, red wine, $12, Washoe Wine Co.

This wine is from Costieres de N”mes, one of the best-quality zones in the region. (Other quality zones include Corbieres, Minervois, Fitou, Pic Saint Loup and the Vin de Pays d'Oc appellation.)

Like many Languedoc-Roussillon wines, the Mas Neuf combines fruit flavors with hints of clove and other spices.

2001 Château La Roque, red wine, $15, Washoe Wine Co.

The La Roque family purchased its ancestral château in 1259. This wine is especially fragrant. Moore described it as smelling like a hillside full of laurel, lavender, herbs and spices. As with most other Languedoc-Roussillon wines, this wine is meant to be drunk right away.

Réserve St. Martin merlot, $5/glass, Enoteca.

The St. Martin is one of the wines specially labeled for American consumers — hence the merlot designation.

"Languedoc wines are getting better all the time," said Eddy Sweet, Enoteca's sommelier.

"This wine is soft, fairly simple, balanced. It's an easy-drinking wine."

2001 Château La Roque, white wine, $11.99, Whispering Vine.

One of the few white wines from Languedoc-Roussillon. It's a blend of marsanne, viognier and rolle, an obscure varietal with a floral character.

"This is simple, refreshing and not high in acid," said Whispering Vine owner Curtis Worrall. "It's better for warm weather."

2000 Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue, red wine, $13.99, Whispering Vine.

Syrah, a hugely popular varietal, blends with mourvedre and carignan, an old Languedoc-Roussillon standby, in this wine.

"It has a nice spiciness that works well with spicy food," said Brian Lalor of Whispering Vine. "I remember having it at a barbecue, and it was a nice pairing."