Looking back at a year of dining trends
By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic
It's behind us. We can now all pipe up about last year without the requisite guilt or remorse usually associated with our hunger pangs.
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An important consumer trend today is the awareness about all things food: Whether health-centric, diet-related, eco-driven or flavor-based, the perception of food is changing. But keep in mind that it's often the food industry that drives consumer trends, not the other way around.
Lia Okamura and Nate Alameda enjoy lunch at Moutarde Cafe, a tiny eatery owned by Kahala Caterers at 3458 Wai'alae Ave.
Sis Kitchen, 1137 11th Ave., hits the spot for well-prepared Korean food in Kaimuki. Call 732-0902 for information.
The tataki of 'ahi is served on a bed of charred vegetables at 21 Degrees North, Turtle Bay Resort in Kahuku.
Organic foods, although gaining in popularity, still only garner a fraction of the market, and that is primarily based on at-home cooking, not restaurants — though Honolulu is home to Bizen, an organic Japanese restaurant (2334 S. King St.; 942-7003), which opened in 2002.
In restaurants, it's the low-carb craze that appears to be affecting business the most. National chains such as Subway, T.G.I. Friday's and Blimpie's, as well as our own fast-growing L&L Drive-In, are tailoring menus to satisfy the call for high-protein, low-carbohydrate food. In a study conducted by the T.G.I. Friday's chain, 19 percent — one of every five diners in the casual-dining segment —Êsay they are using the Atkins approach. L&L announced a double-meat Atkins plate earlier this year.
As we consider the flow of food and trends, it's appropriate to tip the cap to notable Honolulu eateries that were launched in 2003. The restaurant business can be brutally difficult, but when a place succeeds, it's incredibly rewarding.Ê
• Pho Tri (1309 Kalakaua Ave.; 953-2279) is the place for caramelized shrimp, the menu equivalent of a wallflower just waiting to be noticed, appreciated and devoured. It's a spicy plate of shrimp, sauteed and sauced with a dark soy-sauce base, surrounded by scads of onions; softened, dark, salty and lip-smackingly good.
• Moutarde Cafe (3458 Wai'alae Ave.; 732-5192) is a tiny eatery owned by Kahala Caterers. The eclectic selection combines old standards, comfort foods and baked goods.
• Pu'uwainani's Lunch Wagon (Halekauwila and South streets, in the parking lot; 286-5388) — in a word, itÊrocks. The husband-wife team of Marcos Rebibis Jr. and Lendy Rebibis proves that persistence and dedication pay off. The food is 'ono.
• Sis Kitchen (1137 11th Ave.; 732-0902) hits the spot for well-prepared Korean food in Kaimuki.
• The Bistro (Century Center, 1750 Kalakaua Ave., third floor; 943-6500) is a sophisticated and beautiful hideaway, a return to gracious banquettes-and-dim-room days, offering casually elegant lunches, with continental favorites and tuxedo-clad tableside service at night.
• 21 Degrees North (Turtle Bay Resort, Kahuku; 293-8811) offers contemporary Island cuisine with a French accent in a beautiful setting, a tiered dining room with ocean views. Dessert here means spectacular homemade ice creams. Try the fresh basil flavor.
• Marbella (1680 Kapi'olani Blvd.; 943-4353) showcases Mediterranean fare with tastes that are fresh and honest. It has been received enthusiastically. The interior is cool and comfortable, and the service is friendly and efficient.
Here's wishing continued success to all these fine establishments, as well as the new ones to come this year. May your 2004 be filled with great health, abundant wealth and fabulous flavors.
Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.
