Downhill rippahs

By Chris Oliver
Advertiser Travel Writer

One of the best ways to see a lot of of this colorful Canadian skiing resort at once is from a gondola or lift. Chris Sykes

If that makes sense, you already know about Whistler Blackcomb, Canada's juggernaut of ski resorts, consistently rated in ski and travel magazine surveys as the most popular ski resort in North America — and with Islanders, especially.

Seven-mile runs with near-vertical drops, consistent daily winter snowfall, a night life described in Skiing magazine as "pulsing with Bacchanalian energy," heli-skiing, cross-country adventures for serious skiers, and coming soon, Whistler's chance to host the ultimate party when the 2010 Winter Olympics and Paralympic Games push off on the slopes to the tune of $1.3 billion dollars and an estimated 5.3 million visitors.

Whistler's slopes have never looked whiter.

The alpine village-style resort also is a longtime favorite destination of Hawai'i folks looking for a different set of risks than at Las Vegas' gaming tables. Easily accessible via Aloha Airlines direct flights to nearby Vancouver with an appealing Canadian dollar exchange rate, Whistler dangles that much-sought-after vacation carrot: outdoor singles and family fun for all ages.

Kailua businessman John Bingham had exactly that in mind when he booked his first skiing trip to Whistler five years ago. "Like many parents with kids entering 'teendom' I found it more and more difficult to find activities we could share as a family, where there was mutual enthusiasm in being together and participating in a common activity," Bingham said. "THIS was the ticket!"

For Christmas 1999, he made online reservations and gave each family member a Whistler brochure for the spring break holiday.

Sons, Eric and Ian Bingham (then 15 and 12) had never seen snow before. After snowboard school for the first three days, they attempted their first run down Whistler mountain on the fourth, John skiing and the boys snowboarding (Whistler is unique in that it has green novice runs even from the top of the mountain). After they made their first run together, he knew he'd found something very special.

"I stood on my skis at the bottom of that first run, watching my boys struggle down the slope, crashing and burning frequently, with great fatherly pride. It was appropriate to greet them with a fresh snowball when they arrived," he said.

"Now, after five years of consecutive spring break ski holidays, they are the ones waiting for me with the snowballs. These are the best hits a father could ever take," he added. "A week in Whistler is just a great way for all of us to have a good time."

The Binghams are planning their sixth spring break adventure to Whistler this March.

Ski continental, eat local

Kama'aina Golf and Ski Travel tour leader Tats Kobayashi also knows a thing about crashing and burning on Whistler mountain, after once overshooting the trail and landing face down and skis up in a snow bank. Sinking by the minute, he was eventually dug out by the mountain's ski patrol.

Waiting to be rescued, Kobayashi, 43, had an added anxiety. He was cooking dinner for his 25-strong tour group that evening.

Each December and March, Kobayashi, a chef and accomplished snowboarder, books rooms at Blackcomb Lodge, in Whistler, packs his pots and pans and takes Hawai'i folks to the slopes for skiing and snowboarding ... with a twist. Each evening, Kobayashi cooks and serves appetizers, dinner and dessert in his studio loft for the entire group.

"From 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., I go snowboarding, then I buy groceries and at 4 p.m. start prepping the food," he said. At 6 p.m. Kobayashi is ready to dish up dinner. The menu can be Italian, Japanese, Thai or as local as Portuguese bean soup. "We have some wine and beer and the group can just get together, relax and share the day's adventures," he said. "It's economical for the group and works out pretty well."

So well, in fact, that many of Kobayashi's clients repeat the experience. In March, 10 out of 12 families on the upcoming spring break tour are repeating their Whistler vacation with him.

A great place for kids

Whistler village resonates with families because its easy and safe for kids to be on their own, said Nancy Gelder, of Kaimuki. "The main areas are pedestrianized with plenty of coffee shops and playgrounds within view."

Teenagers, when they're not powering down the slopes, especially like the independence. "The snow is great, the rail park is fun and there's a supernice atmosphere in the village," said Ian Bingham, 17. "There's an arcade and you can hang out with your friends easily."

Judy and Bruno West ski every year, frequently choosing Whistler as a destination. "It's an easy trip from Honolulu to a great location, and the drive from Vancouver along the Sea to Sky corridor is just beautiful," said Judy West. "You can take the red-eye and be up on the slopes the next morning; the village is friendly and has plenty to do for all ages."

Last February the Wests held a family reunion in Whistler village with their grown children, grandchild and extended family. The group rented adjoining condos which allowed them to self cater, their preference, Judy West said.

The Wests are skiers but have also been snowmobiling, cross-country skiing and for Bruno West, a Honolulu dentist, the chance to venture into higher realms to go heli-skiing (skiers are dropped at less accessible locations from a helicopter).

To sum up: "Whistler is a phenomenal mountain," Judy West said.

Why choose Whistler?

From November through May, Whistler activities including cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, paragliding, heliskiing and snowshoeing. And more ... Whistler Blackcomb's alpine village atmosphere, cobbled streets, galleries, shopping, nightlife and restaurants makes it a cool destination ... even if you don't ski.

Village atmosphere: A safe and lively environment with lodgings, galleries, a spa, shops, restaurants, bars and entertainment in one central pedestrian area. You can let the kids loose.

Value for money: The Canadian dollar exchange rate makes for an affordable holiday, translating into a third discount.

Easy to get there: Several airlines fly daily direct flights to Vancouver from Honolulu. The Sea to Sky Highway from Vancouver to Whistler Village passes fjords and mountains along 75 miles of spectacular mountain road, easy by car or express bus.

Popular with Hawai'i folks: "If Hawai'i folks had a party, it would close the village down," has been a favorite comment.

Great snowboarding and ski runs: Green (beginner) runs are right across the mountains so the top of the mountain is not limited to only the best skiers and snowboarders. Everyone can do it. Blue and black runs for the more advanced.

Snowboard X-tremes: Terrain (rail) parks offer tubes, barrels, obstacles and rails for those for whom it's never extreme enough.

Down side: A coastal Pacific climate can bring rain. Some skiers and boarders warn that snow quality on the lower slopes can get get soft and sloshy by the end of March.

Just the numbers

Whistler village consists of two mountains: Whistler and Blackcomb linked by an alpine village resort.

• Annual visitors: 2 million.
• Average daily visitors in winter: 16,000.
• Base elevation: Whistler 2,140 feet; Blackcomb 2,214 feet.
• Peak elevation: Whistler 7,160 feet, Blackcomb 7,494 feet.
• Vertical: Whistler 5,020 feet, Blackcomb 5,280 feet.
• Longest run: 7 miles.
• Skiable terrain: Whistler, 3,657 acres; Blackcomb, 3,414 acres.
• Whistler runs: 20 percent beginner, 55 percent intermediate, 25 percent expert.
• Blackcomb runs: 15 percent beginner, 55 percent intermediate, 30 percent expert.
• Total lifts: Whistler, 16; Blackcomb, 17.
• Lift capacity: 29,895 people an hour; 29,112 people an hour.
• Marked runs: 100 plus on each mountain.
• Average yearly snowfall: on Whistler mountain is 350 inches, on Blackcomb 404 inches.
• Whistler hotel rooms: in the thousands.
• Bars: 25.
• Eateries: 86.
• Whistler central reservations: (800) 766-0449.
• Information: www.whistler-blackcomb.com.

If you go ...

Whistler village, tucked into the Canada's coastal mountains and home to 10,000 permanent residents, is 75 miles north of Vancouver, British Columbia. A round-trip fare from Honolulu to Vancouver is about $475 (spring-break fares will cost more. Lower fares are available on the Internet). Express bus/limousine service operates 24 hours daily between Vancouver airport and Whistler village door-to-door and costs $145 per person, round-trip. Reservations: (604) 905-7668, e-mail: reservations@whistlerstarexpress.com, or by rental car.

Lodgings: Choose from hotels, condominiums, lodges and guest houses. Room rates begin at $59 (all prices are in U.S. dollars) per person, per night,double occupancy. Central reservations: (800) 944-7853, www.mywhistler.com.

Lessons: Ski and snowboard lessons are available for all levels and ages. Lessons range from private half- and full-day beginners' lessons to small intermediate and advanced groups to superski and snowboard adventure camps. A 3-day adult beginner package with ski or board rental and lift pass costs $308 US. A full-day "tune-up" for those who can ski or board, with lift pass and rental equipment, costs $186 US. Information: www.whistler-blackcomb.com.

Other Activities: Cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, snowshoeing, heli-skiing, tobogganing, snowcat tours, horse-drawn sleigh rides and dog-sledding.

Night Moves: Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night through March 20, skiers and boarders can ski, ride and take on the rail park under the lights from 5 p.m.-9 p.m. on Blackcomb Mountain. The rail park includes a mini rainbow rail, C-boxes, Jib boxes and Pyramids. 18 Below is open for food and beverage service. Helmet, ski and board rentals are available in the Blackcomb Daylodge. Tobogganing is in the Magic Carpet area. You may ride the chair with snowskates and snowbikes.

Tickets available at Blackcomb Daylodge: $12, adults, youth & seniors; $6, 7-12 years, free for 6 and younger. Season Passholders and Express Card holders receive 50 percent discount.

Information and reservations: www.whistler-blackcomb.com, www.mywhistler.com.

Kama'aina Golf and Ski Travel offers ski and snowboard packages in December and March. The package includes round-trip airfare and ground transportation to Whistler, five nights accommodations at Blackcomb Lodge, lift ticket, evening dinner and one night hotel accommodation in Vancouver. Cost is $1,595 per person in December; $1,760 per person in March (Canadian taxes, tips and gratuities are included). Reservations: 739-5777.