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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted at 11:58 a.m., Tuesday, January 13, 2004

20-foot waves packing power

By Mike Gordon
Advertiser Staff Writer

North Shore surf may not have been as high as originally forecast this morning, but lifeguards still called it "big and dangerous."

Today, as the second of three "swell trains" pounded north- and west-facing shores across much of the state, the National Weather Service said the waves were smaller than expected — 18- 22-foot faces instead of 30-foot faces — and that tomorrow’s third "episode" may be smaller, too. A mere 25 feet instead of 45 feet.

"It is still big and dangerous," said Lt. Pat Kelly, a lifeguard on O'ahu’s North Shore.

"There is no swimming anywhere here today," he said. "It’s experts only at Waimea Bay. It’s too big everywhere else and dangerous. It is no good at all for surfing."

The weather service posted a high-surf advisory today for north- and west-facing shores for all Hawaiian islands.

Today’s swell was expected to decrease today with the third, and largest, swell arriving as early as tomorrow afternoon, said Roy Matsuda, lead forecaster for the weather service. The third swell should peak Thursday morning, he said.

A high-wind watch also was in effect today for Kaua'i, O'ahu, Moloka'i, Lana'i. Sustained southerly winds of 35 mph to 40 mph with some higher gusts are predicted for tomorrow.

The weather service is advising homeowners to secure loose objects so they do not become "projectiles." The wind may also push the surf further ashore, Matsuda said.

"When this wind starts kicking up, what it will tend to do is knock down the wave heights," he said. "But it if is a following wind, it will drive the surf further inland. It still could be a property damaging thing."

Winds on the summit of Mauna Kea were 50 mph to 60 mph yesterday but had dropped down to about 40 mph today, said Ron Koehler, general manager for Mauna Kea Observatories Support Services.

The summit road was not closed today, although officials considered doing that, he said.

"One of the problems with high winds is if your car is pointed in the wrong direction and you open the door, the door gets bent," he said. "The wind grabs it and it slaps it around."