Upscale takeout spot caters to hurried masses

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

The deli case at Diamond Head Market & Grill is restocked constantly, and the rambling menu includes roasted meats, grilled fish, pasta and stir-fry dishes, quiches, salads, baked goods and much more. Owner Kelvin Ro calls his eatery a "one-stop party shop and new-world deli for people who don't have time to shop, cook and clean." Photos by Jeff Widener • The Honolulu Advertiser

Employee Jan Toma serves up blueberry and cream-cheese scones and other baked goodies at Diamond Head Market & Grill. Diamond Head Market & Grill 3158 Monsarrat Ave. 732-0077 Market hours: 7:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. daily Grill hours: 10:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. daily Very good

The year-old market is still a work in progress. It's an edible, colorful and creative venture that will tease your taste buds and arouse your senses. I walked into the place recently and was immediately swept away by the delightful aroma of roasting turkeys, fresh pesto lasagna ($5.95 per large slab), and fresh-baked pies, cakes, tortes, scones and breads.

The signature bakery dessert here is called the Diamond Head Market pie ($14.75), and contains fresh bananas, peanut-butter cheesecake, and chocolate pudding piled on to an Oreo crust before being topped with whipped cream. Oh my!

I imagined tasting the packaged chicken karaage bento ($3.50) and the somen salad with chicken and char siu ($6.75) from the Japanese department (a small refrigerated case).

But then I turned to my left and saw an enchilada, Spanish rice and salsa combo priced to move at $4. Next to that were 'ahi nicoise salad ($8.50) and a chicken Caesar salad ($7.25), surrounded by salad dressings, soups, dips and sauces.

My friend Grayce raves about their bacon, sugar-cane and pecan-crusted pork loin ($8.25 per pound), which was fantastic. Pick up some chicken cacciatore ($6.50 per pound), fennel-citrus salad ($6.25), pineapple ginger slaw ($5.50 per pound), along with the tomato, feta and snap pea salad ($7.25 per pound ), and you have a feast waiting to happen.

There's so much to choose from here, and the variety is ever-changing. The staff brings new items from the kitchen to the deli case as soon as something sells out. What's next could be a black bean shrimp stir-fry, jambalaya, kalua pork, assorted quiches, lomi salmon, gravlax, Thai curry or almost anything else.

Ro describes his market as a "one-stop party shop and a new-world deli for people who don't have the time to shop, cook and clean." I say you'll love it even if you do have the time.

They've just added two new departments to the store — an espresso and coffee bar featuring Peet's products, and a shop serving Dave's ice cream.

Next door is the grill, a fast take-away "as good as fine dining, but at one-third to one-half the price," says Ro. There is a tiny bit of outdoor seating, but it's mainly a take-out operation.

I tried the grilled salmon plate lunch ($8.50), flavored with miso and fresh lemon, served with salad and brown rice; and the portobello burger ($6.75) that I totally flipped over. Along with the burger patty was a chewy, juicy portobello mushroom, and grilled onions, flavored with a butter-balsamic vinegar sauce. The burgers here are seasoned, and bread crumbs are used to enhance taste and texture, more enjoyable than most burgers around town.

The staffers at the grill are dressed in chef's whites and cook in full view of waiting patrons. They take pride in working in this fast-paced space.

Many of the choices can be prepared as sandwiches, mini plates or plate lunches. The grilled 'ahi steak sandwich ($6.50), mini-plate ($6.75) and plate lunch ($8.75) are popular choices, as is the char siu chicken ($4.50 / $5.75 / $6.75). I'm told that the prime-rib plate ($13.75) and the surf & turf ($11.75, grilled shrimp with garlic butter, and teri beef) are good.

My two favorites here are the french fries ($1.75) and the grilled vegetable sandwich ($5.50) on warm, soft focaccia, with red pepper, eggplant, onion and zucchini, with pesto and feta.

Ro has a stellar reputation as a capable and talented food guy, restaurateur, culinary instructor and entrepreneur. It's fitting that his latest venture is doing so well. People from all over the island make the trek here.

During the research for this piece, I found out that Ro's birthday is today. I'm sure Ro, a self-described "nurturer," will be celebrating today by serving others, making sure his places are offering "the best gourmet rustic comfort food."

Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.