Diet food products can cost a lot, have insipid flavor

By Linda Giuca
Hartford (Conn.) Courant

In the initial phase of the Atkins diet, carbohydrates are limited to 20 grams a day for the first two weeks. That figure allows only certain vegetables and no fruits, grains or breads. (To put that carbohydrate figure in perspective, an English muffin has about 25 grams of carbohydrates, a baked potato with skin about 50 grams.)

In the second phase of the diet, the dieter can add 5 grams of carbohydrates a week as long as he or she continues to lose weight. Even when the carb allowance increases, it still doesn't allow unlimited starchy foods. Getting the most for the least amount of carbs is the goal, and that's where the new low-carb foods are gaining ground.

A group of Hartford Courant writers, some of whom have followed the Atkins diet, put some of these new foods to a taste test. We liked certain items; we hated others. Overall, however, those with Atkins diet experience conceded that even the mediocre foods would taste pretty good after a few weeks of deprivation.

One caveat: A diet rich in these packaged or prepared low-carb foods will fatten the amount spent on food each week. A package of Atkins Corn Muffin and Bread mix, which produces 11 muffins or a standard loaf, costs $5.99. A box of Jiffy cornbread mix costs less than $1. Frozen dinners made by Mike's Life Style Gourmet, $5.99 to $7.99.

Here is our take on how some of these new foods taste:

Atkins Nutritionals' Quick Cuisine Corn Muffin and Bread Mix: Instead of muffins, we made this mix in a loaf pan, as directed on the package. The additional ingredients — one-third cup oil, two eggs and one-third cup heavy cream — are high in fat. A serving of the bread gets slightly more than half of its calories from fat. The panel gave the bread's texture and flavor a thumbs-up with some reservations. "Add some melted butter and cheese, and it's not bad," said one. A 3/4-inch-thick slice has 170 calories and 8 grams of net carbs. $5.99.

Atkins Nutritionals' Quick Cuisine Fudge Brownie Mix: It's hard not to like something chocolate, but these brownies just aren't worth the calories or the carbs, reduced as they are. One slice has 60 calories and 5 net carbs. $2.99.

Klondike Fudge Bars: Frozen treats on a stick were the winner of the tasting. "Only three grams of carbs? I could get into these," said one taster. Another praised the creamy mouth feel and lack of an aftertaste, often a problem with products sweetened with sugar substitutes. Each bar has 100 calories and 3 grams of net carbs. $3.99.

Thomas' Carb Counting Plain Bagels: Our tasters won't buy this product anytime soon. Even half the carbohydrates as regular Thomas' plain bagels isn't enough to make the nasty flavor and texture of the reduced-carb version palatable. One bagel has 140 calories and 18 net carbs. $2.99.